Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, uhambo lwam lwaqala ngoAprili 26 ukuya kuMeyi 13, 2021. ITsum Valley Trek yaphela eMachha Khola Gaon. Olu hambo luye lwadlula kwindawo esanda kuvulelwa iindwendwe. Abahambi bamanye amazwe basanqabile eTsum Valley. Ngoko ke, abantu basekuhlaleni ababoni abaninzi bangaphandle. Le Diary yaseTsum Valley ibalisa ngeentsuku zam kulo mmandla usemagqagaleni.

Ndabhala ngamava am emihla ngemihla. Ndabelana ngeendibano nabantu kunye nendalo. Ndazichaza izigigaba zam ezindleleni. Ukuba ufuna eyodwa Uhambo lwaseNepal, cinga ngoTsum Valley Trek. Inika inkcubeko engachukunyiswanga kunye neembono ezimangalisayo zeentaba. Zilungiselele iimeko ezibalulekileyo kunye nohambo olucelomngeni. Nangona kunjalo, umvuzo kukubona indawo ekhethekileyo. Uya kungqina indlela yokuphila yemveli. Uya kufumana ubuhle bokwenyani be-Himalayan. Le Diary yaseTsum Valley ikubonisa ukuba ulindele ntoni. Yisebenzise ukucwangcisa eyakho iTsum Valley Trek emangalisayo!

NgoMvulo, nge-26 ka-Epreli (eKathmandu ukuya eSoti Khola-Usuku lokuqala kwiTsum Valley Trek)

Uhambo lwethu oluya kwiNtlambo yaseTsum aluqalanga ngokukhwela iimoto enye kodwa ezimbini. Besisiya eSoti Khola, indawo esiqale kuyo uhambo lwethu. Umkhokeli wam, uPheri, wadibana nam ngokuqaqambileyo kwaye kwangoko kwihotele yam eKathmandu malunga ne-5:45 AM. Ilanga laliphuma phezu kwentlambo yaseKathmandu, nto leyo eyayisenza kube yintsasa entle ukuqalisa uhambo lwethu. Kwafika ixesha lokuhamba.

Olu hambo alulibaleki. Saceba ukuhlola iTsum Valley, ummandla oseNepal osandul’ ukuvulelwa iindwendwe. Ayikude kakhulu eKathmandu, kodwa ivakala ngathi lilizwe elahlukileyo ngokwenkcubeko. Singene kwindawo enezithethe zamandulo, sishiya ngasemva inkcubeko ye-Nepali eqhelekileyo, enokwenzeka nangaphezulu kunokuba unokuyifumana eTibet namhlanje.

KwiNtlambo yaseTsum, iBuddhism yaseTibetan yindlela yobomi. Abantu, izithethe zabo, ulwimi lwabo nonqulo lwabo zonke zinxibelelene neTibet. Nangona kunjalo, ekuhambeni kwexesha, iTsum Valley iye yaphuhlisa inkcubeko yayo ekhethekileyo. Enye into ebangela umdla kukuba akukho mntu utya inyama apha. Izilwanyana zasendle aziboyiki mntu kuba azizingelwa. Kwanolwimi lwaseTibet lunencasa yalo kule ntlambo isemagqagaleni.

Iintaba eziphakamileyo, ezigqunywe likhephu ziye zagcina iTsum Valley ukusuka kwihlabathi langaphandle kangangeenkulungwane. AmaLamas, iinkokeli zonqulo zaloo mmandla, nazo zaba negalelo ekuwugcineni ukheswa. Bacele ookumkani bangaphambili baseNepal ukuba banciphise ukufikelela kwiTsum Valley ukukhusela inkcubeko yabo. Kwaba ngo-2008 xa iNepal yaba yiriphabliki, iTsum Valley yavuleleka kubantu basemzini.

Olu tshintsho lwenzekile ngenxa yokuba abantu basekhaya bafuna ukunxibelelana nehlabathi ngaphandle. Abantwana babo baqalisa ukuya kwizikolo zaseKathmandu, kwaza kwafika iimbono ezintsha kuloo ntlambo. Utshintsho kunzima ukuyeka, nokuba uzama.

Ndandiza kufumana ntoni apho? Akukho nto ingako ebhaliweyo malunga neTsum Valley, emantla eentaba zeGanesh Himal. Imephu yokuhambahamba ikhona, kodwa imalunga nayo. Umsebenzi wam ibikukwenza incwadi yokuqala yesikhokhelo yalo mmandla.

Kule nxalenye yokuqala yohambo, ndidibene noPradip Karki, oxhasa umsebenzi wam kwaye ungumnini wePeregrine Treks kunye neExpedition. Kwakhona sasinoRam, owayeza kuba sisikhokelo sam esiphambili. Sahamba kwangethuba ukuze siphephe indlela ephithizelayo yaseKathmandu. Sasihamba ngeToyota 4×4, eyayiza yimfuneko kwiindlela ezimbi eziya ezintabeni, ngakumbi kwindlela eya eArughat Bazar.

Izithuthi ezijikeleze iKathmandu zisoloko zinzima. Iindlela zihlala zinemizila emibini kuphela. Ngokufuthi, iilori ezindala ziyophuka, nto leyo eyenza izinto zicothe ngakumbi. Ukuhamba kwangethuba yeyona ndlela ilungileyo yokudlula kule traffic ngokukhawuleza. Sihambe kwangethuba ukuze siphoswe ziingxaki ezininzi zendlela.

Ukumisa kwethu okokuqala kwaba yiDhading Beshi, idolophu enkulu kwiSithili saseDhading. Esi sithili sibandakanya yonke indawo yaseGanesh Himal. Ngelixa uhambo lwethu beluya kuba kwisithili saseGorkha, umntu othile eDhading uya kuba ngobaluleke kakhulu kum kamva kuhambo. USilas Tamang, unobhala olawulayo weHIMS Nepal, uhlala apha. U-HIMS Nepal libandla lamaKristu elinceda abantu abakummandla weGanesh Himal. USilas, okhulele kule ndawo, uzinikele enceda uluntu ahlala kulo.

UPradip noSilas babengazange badibane, kwaye ndandifuna ukubazisa. Ndiqale ukusebenza noSilas, kwaye uya kundinceda kakhulu kwiiveki ezizayo. Kamva, xa ndabuyela kummandla waseGanesh Himal, ndagula, yaye uSilas wandinceda kakhulu.

Siqhube uhola wendlela sade sayofika kwi turn off ye Dhading Beshi. Sajikela emantla kwindlela egangathiweyo eya edolophini. Emva kokuba simkile eDhading Beshi, saqalisa ukubushiya ngasemva ubomi banamhlanje. Ukudlula esixekweni, indlela egangathiweyo yajika yajika yaba nguthuli njengoko sasisiya ngaseArughat Bazar.

INepal ineentlobo ezimbini eziphambili zamaxesha onyaka: uthuli nodaka. Ukususela ngoJuni ukuya phakathi kuSeptemba, iimvula zemvula ziguqula yonke into ibe ludaka. Emva kokuyeka imvula, umhlaba wodongwe uyoma ube ngumgubo, udala amafu othuli emva kwesithuthi ngasinye. Nkqu nokuhamba kukhaba uthuli olugqume izihlangu zakho kunye nemilenze kumqolo omdaka. Uthuli lude lungene phakathi kwezihlangu zakho kunye neekawusi.

Endleleni esuka eDhading ukuya eAughat, sabona imibhiyozo emininzi yomtshato. Umculo wasekuhlaleni kwezi ziganeko unesixhobo sobhedu. Kufana nomxube phakathi kwexilongo kunye ne-sousaphone, engenazivalo kodwa umlomo wobhedu owenziwe ngesandla. Inokudlala amanqaku ambalwa kuphela, kodwa iimvumi ezinezakhono zenza ivakale imangalisa.

Bendifuna ukuzama ukuyidlala. UPradip noPhery bathi ukwenza isandi kunzima kum. Kodwa ndifumene ithuba kwaye ndadlala amanqaku ambalwa! Ndandidla ngokudlala ixilongo esikolweni, ngoko ndandinombono wokuvuthela emlonyeni.

Le mvumi yasidlalela iingoma ezithile. Emva koko, wakhupha isixhobo esincinci, esifana ne-clarinet, esifana neso sisebenzisa amakhubalo enyoka eIndiya. Yayinengcongolo ephindwe kabini kwaye yenza isandi esingaqhelekanga.

Isihlwele sahlanganisana kuthi. Le mvumi yabonisa ukuba sifanele simhlawule. Ndakhupha i-10 Rupees, kodwa uPradip wakhawuleza wamnika i-100 Rupees. Ndenza ngathi ndothukile, kodwa le mvumi yaqhubeka idlala, inethemba lokufumana imali engakumbi. Wadlala, kodwa asizange simnike enye. Saqhubeka nohambo lwethu sityhutyha iinduli ngeToyota yethu de sade safika eArughat Bazar.

IArughat Bazar ibekwe kumacala omabini oMlambo iBudhi Gandaki, oqukuqela usuka eTsum Valley. Apha, umlambo ubanzi yaye uhamba ngokuthe chu ukuya emazantsi. Izitalato zale dolophu zinothuli, kodwa yindawo yokurhweba exakekileyo. IArughat Bazar yayiza kuba yidolophu yokugqibela esembindini ndide ndibuyele eDhading Beshi.

Siye sayeka ukuqhuba iToyota yethu apha. Ukusuka eArughat Bazar, sasiza kusebenzisa izithuthi zasekuhlaleni ukuya kufika eSoti Khola. Kwakhona sadlula kwindawo yethu yokuqala yokuhlola saza sangena. Emva koko, safumana inqwelo-mafutha yasekuhlaleni eyayiza kusiqhubela phambili.

Indlela yaba mxinwa kakhulu kwaye irhabaxa. Ngoku ndandisiqonda isizathu sokuba umqhubi wethu wokuqala engafuni ukuqhuba ngakumbi. Le ndlela ngokungathandabuzekiyo yayizonakalisa izithuthi. Amatye nemingxunya ekroliweyo anokuyiqhekeza lula inqwelo-mafutha.

Ekugqibeleni, indlela yaphela eSoti Khola, idolophana ekufuphi noMlambo iBudhi Gandaki. Apha, uMlambo waseSoti ujoyina iBudhi Gandaki. Umlambo iSoti uphawula ukuphela kokuhamba kwezithuthi. Ekuphela kwendlela yokuwela umlambo apha yibhulorho enqunyanyiswayo, esetyenziswa ngabantu abahamba ngeenyawo needonki.

Iikharavani zeedonki ezikhonza kwimimandla ephezulu zimisa apha. Iimpahla ezithwalwa ziidonki ziye zothulwa zize zisiwe eKathmandu ngelori. Kuhambo lokubuyela ezintabeni, iidonki zithwele izinto ezifana necuba, iwiski, isoda, irayisi, kunye nezinye iimpahla.

Iidonki bezisetyenziswa kangangeenkulungwane ukuthutha iimpahla kwezi ntaba. Bafana neelori zasezintabeni. Amaqela abanini ahamba kunye nemigca emide yeedonki - ngamanye amaxesha izilwanyana ezingaphezu kwama-40 - nganye ithwele malunga neekhilogram ezingama-65 zempahla.

Aba banini beedonki bayafana noonogcino basezintabeni. Baphatha imali emarikeni, bathenge izinto baze bazibuyisele. Imali eninzi ihamba ngezi kharavani, kunye neentlawulo zenzala. Yonke into irekhodwa ngononophelo ukuqinisekisa ukunyaniseka. Kwaye ukukhusela, abanini baphatha imela yeKhukuri.

Siye salala kwi guest house engase Soti Khola ngasemlanjeni e Soti Khola. Ngomso, uhambo lwam oluya eTsum Valley lwaluza kuqala.

Usuku lwe-2 lweTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesibini, ngoAprili 27

Laphuma ilanga kwilali yaseSoti Khola. Yayilusuku olutsha. Salungiselela ukuhamba sobathathu. Izolo, savalelisa ePradip. Wahlala nodade wabo ukuze batyelele intsapho. Ngoku, saqalisa uhambo lwethu oluya ngasentla kwindlela ephambili.

Indlela yayilula ukuyilandela. Sabona nje izithuthuthu ezimbalwa. Izithuthuthu kuphela kwezithuthi ezinokuwela ibhulorho emxinwa eSoti Khola. Besihamba; izithuthuthu zazidlula ngamanye amaxesha.

Umhlaba wehla unyuka. Uthuli lwaseNepal lwalukuyo yonke indawo. Apha, kwakushushu kunaseKathmandu. Iqondo lobushushu lingafikelela malunga nama-33 ngokukaCelsius. UPheri waziva eshushu kakhulu. Uvela kwingingqi ye-Everest, ephawulekayo ngakumbi. Kum, ubushushu bebulungile. Ndihamba ngeenyawo eBangladesh. Oku bekungcono kunobushushu kwiveki ephelileyo.

Ndiyahamba. Abahlali bahamba indlela ngeyure enye. Ndidinga iiyure ezimbini ukuya kwindlela enye. Ndamxelela uPheri ukuba ndiyacotha. Kodwa wayesamangaliswe yindlela endandicotha ngayo.

Ndiyacotha ngenxa yezizathu ezimbalwa. Ndatyandwa edolweni kulo nyaka uphelileyo. Ndineminyaka engama-56 ubudala. Amalungu am aba buhlungu kusasa ngenxa yesifo samathambo. Kuthatha malunga neyure enye ukuhamba ukuze iintlungu ziphele. Kwakhona, andikho elugqatsweni. Ndifuna ukubhala incwadi yesikhokhelo. Ndiyakuthanda ukuhamba. Ndifuna ukubona yonke into endingqongileyo.

Kwakhona, usuku ndaluqala ngorhudo. Oku kwenza ukuhamba nzima. Emva koko, ndafumanisa enye into. Silibele ukuzisa ukucocwa kwamanzi izolo. Ngoku, kufuneka sithembele emanzini abilisiweyo. Sinokuwasela kuphela amanzi abilisiweyo xa siwafumene.

Sadlula kwiifama ezininzi ezincinane zaseNepal. Umzila wawuhamba kwiifama nasezilalini. Abantu baye benza iifama emacaleni eentaba. Indlela yaba ngumzila. Kwezinye iindawo, umzila wawunezinyuko zamatye. Izitepsi zasinceda ukuba sinyuke sisehla ngokukhawuleza.

Abantu basekuhlaleni bawenza la manyathelo. Ngokubanzi zezemeyile. Iimeyile zisebenzisa le mizila. Iimeyile zishiya ilindle lazo endleleni, ngakumbi kwizinyuko zamatye.

Amanyathelo akalingani. Inyathelo elinye linokuba lifutshane. Inyathelo elilandelayo linokuba lide kakhulu. Ngamanye amaxesha, kukho indawo encinci yokubeka unyawo lwakho. Yanele nje uphuphu lwe-esile. Ukunyuka intaba kulula kum. Ukuhla ezantsi kunzima. Kufuneka ndilumke xa ndisihla ngezinyuko. Andifuni kutyibilika ndiwe. Ukuwa kunokophuka umlenze wam. Kwakhona, ukuwa apha kunokuba yingozi. Icala elinye lomzila lidla ngokuba yithontsi. Ndandingafuni ukuwa.

Pha ngo-1:30 PM, safika kwilali yaseLapu Beshi. Le lali ifana nezinye iilali sizakuzibona. Yakhiwe ecaleni kwendlela. Amasimi ajikelezileyo ajikeleze. Abantu babenza la masimi ecaleni kwentaba. Idolophu isecaleni kwentaba. Azikho iindlela ezisecaleni kwezinye izindlu.

Le lali inezindlu zeendwendwe ezintathu. Awekho amanye amashishini apha. Yonke into incinci. Indawo yokwakha ilinganiselwe.

Siye samisa isidlo sasemini kwiHotele iLaligurans eLapu Beshi. UPheri uye wagqiba kwelokuba sizolala apha. Saceba ukufikelela eMachha Khola Gaon. Kodwa uPheri watshintsha amacebo. Bendingenangxaki. Yayilusuku lokuqala lokuhamba ngeenyawo. Ndandingafuni ukuhamba kakhulu.

Ihotele inamagumbi omntu ngamnye. Amagumbi alula, ibhedi nje. Banendawo yokuhlambela. Ngoko, ndahlamba uthuli oluvela kwindlela. Indawo yokutya ingasemlanjeni. Inombono omkhulu woMlambo waseBudhi Gandaki.

Emva kwesidlo sasemini, kwanetha. Kwabakho isiphango. Kodwa yadlula ngokukhawuleza. Ndafunda ukuba izaqhwithi zasemva kwemini zikwabelwana ngazo apha. Umoya awunako ukunyuka phezu kweentaba. Ngoko, imvula inetha entlanjeni. Le mvula igcina intlambo iluhlaza.

Imenyu yokutya yayincinci. Yayine-Dal Bhat kunye ne-spaghetti. Ndibize ispaghetti. Bekungekubi. I-sauce ibonakala ingaqhelekanga, njenge-paste. Ndongeze iketchup kuyo. Emva koko, incasa ngakumbi njengesosi yespaghetti. Ndiyazi ukuba kufuneka ukulungele ukutshintsha ukutya kwakho ezintabeni.

Ndadibana nomfoti waseNepali ehotele. Usebenza eDubai. Wabuya nje eTsum Valley Trek. Wayenemozulu entle. Rhoqo kusasa kwakunelanga. Waya kumthendeleko omkhulu eTsum Valley. Wandibonisa iifoto ezintle zohambo lwakhe.

Iifoto namazwi akhe andenza ndavuya ngohambo lwam. Umoya uqalise ukuvuthuza ngamandla ngobu busuku. Yenze iqondo lobushushu libe lihle kwaye lipholile. Siziimitha ezingama-880 ngaphezu komphakamo wolwandle. Oku kungaphantsi kweKathmandu.

Usuku lwe-3 lweTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesithathu, ngoAprili 28

Namhlanje, sihambe ngeenyawo ukuya kwilali yaseTatopani. Sihleli kwi guest house apha. Igama elithi "Tatopani" lithetha "amanzi ashushu" ngesiNepali. Bendifuna ukuma apha ngenxa yehot springs. Ndandinethemba lokuba ndiza kuziphumza izihlunu zam ezibuhlungu emanzini ashushu. Kodwa iTatopani ibuhlungu. Iqula elishushu lizele ziinkuni. Asinakuyisebenzisela ukuhlamba.

Ilali incinci kwaye yeyakudala. Inendlu yeendwendwe enye kuphela. Le ndlu yeendwendwe yeyokuqala. Ligumbi nje elinye elineebhedi ezishukumayo. Iibhedi zivakala ngathi ziya kuphuka ngamanye amaxesha.

Ukhetho lokutya nalo lubalulekile. Singadla idal/bhat okanye isuphu yenoodle. ITatopani ayinawo umbane. Oku akuqhelekanga kolu hambo. Uninzi lweelali zinamandla athile. Basebenzisa iinkqubo ezincinci zamanzi zendawo. Ezi nkqubo zinika amandla kwiidolophu ezimbalwa iiyure ezimbalwa ngorhatya ngalunye. Kodwa uTatopani akakajoyini kwihlabathi lanamhlanje.

Eyona ndlela inqumla elalini yenziwe ngamatye asicaba. Emazantsi eTatopani kukho imithombo eshushu. Imibhobho emibini yamatye ihlala igalela amanzi ashushu. Amanzi ashushu ahamba kwindawo yamatye. Abantu basebenzisa le ndawo ukuhlamba kunye nokuhlamba izitya.

Satshintsha sanxiba impahla yangaphantsi. Emva koko, sasihlamba ngamanzi ashushu emthonjeni. Yayifana nebhafu yesipontshi kunesoki yokwenene. Omnye umbhobho wamanzi wawunamanzi ashushu kakhulu. Kwaphantse kwatshisa kakhulu ukuba kungafakwa ngqo eluswini lwethu.

Imini yaqalisa ilanga. Sahamba kwangoko saya emantla. Umkhondo wehla usenyuka. Sahambela phezulu njengoko silandela umlambo onyukayo. Umzila bekulula ukuwuhamba ubukhulu becala.

Ngexesha lesidlo sasemini, safika kwilali yaseMachha Khola Gaon. Le yilali enkulu kuhambo. Yakhiwe kwindawo ethe tyaba yentaba. Iindlela ezininzi ziya kwiindawo ezahlukeneyo zedolophu. Kwicala elingasentla, ubona uMlambo iMachha Khola. Iwa kwingxangxasi entle. Emva koko, iqhekeza ibe yimijelo emincinci. Le mijelo ingena kuMlambo waseBudhi Gandaki. UMlambo iMachha Khola unika amandla ezinye iindawo zokusila ukutya okuziinkozo. Kodwa, njengeTatopani, iMachha Khola Gaon ayinawo umbane. Andazi ukuba kutheni bengawusebenzisi umlambo kwiziko lombane elincinci.

Siye samisa kwiHotel Tsum Valley Lodge kunye neRestaurant. Inamagumbi akwimigangatho emibini. Indawo yokutyela inika ukutya okulungileyo. Ndibize yak cheese momos. Zazimnandi.

Besicwangcise ukufikelela eMachha Khola Gaon izolo. Kodwa ndandicotha kakhulu. Ngesifike apha phezolo.

Ndiza kuphinda ndimise apha xa ndibuya eTsum Valley. Ibhuloho eMachha Khola Gaon iya kwingingqi yeGanesh Himal. Ndizovalelisa kumkhaphi wam apha. Emva koko, ndiya kuqesha isikhokelo sendawo ukuhlola indawo yaseGanesh Himal. Ndajonga ngaphesheya komlambo kwintaba ende. Kuya kufuneka sinyuke le ntaba ukuze sifikelele kwipaseji. Kubonakala ngathi kukunyuka okunzima.

Emva kwesidlo sasemini, sahamba. Imozulu yayisiba mhlophe ngamanye amaxesha. Ngosuku olucacileyo, unokubona iintaba zeGanesh Himal. Kodwa namhlanje, isibhakabhaka sasingacacanga ncam.

Siqhubekile saya ngasemantla kwilali yaseKhola Besi. IKhola Besi yilali entle. Yamkela abakhenkethi. Inezindlu ezimbini zeendwendwe. Indlu yokuqala yeendwendwe ilima ikofu yayo. Babhengeza ikofu yendawo. Bendifuna ukuzama ikofu yabo. Ngoko, sayeka. Ikofu ibingenamandla. Kodwa ndabona iimbotyi zekofu kwimithi yekofu.

Saqhubeka sisiya eTatopani. Njengoko benditshilo, uTatopani waphoxeka. Ndiye ndacinga indlela ebekumnandi ngayo ukuhlala eKhola Besi. Babenezindlu zeendwendwe ezisemgangathweni nokutya okubhetele. Ilali yaseTatopani ayikalwamkeli ukhenketho. Kubonakala ngathi yidolophana yokugqibela kumzila ongagxininisi kubakhenkethi. Kwanetha imvula encinane eTatopani njengoko sasilala apho.

Usuku lwe-4 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesine, ngoAprili 29

Namhlanje ibilusuku olubi, olunetha lokuhamba uhambo. Imvula iqale kwangethuba. Kwafuneka sihambe emvuleni kuba sasinocwangciso esasifanele silugcine.

Ukuhamba ngeenyawo eTsum Valley, udinga imvume ekhethekileyo. Iphepha-mvume linemihla ebekiweyo. Kuninzi ekufuneka sikubone kwaye alikho ixesha elininzi.

Ngethamsanqa, ndine-raincoat. Ndanxiba. Ifudumala ngaphakathi kuba ayinamanzi kwaye ayiwuvumeli umoya udlule.

Sayishiya ngasemva iTatopani. Yayinetha ubusuku bonke. Imvula yathotha ixeshana elifutshane xa sihamba. Kumantla nje aloo lali, sawela ibhulorho exhonyiweyo. Ngoku sisempuma yoMlambo waseBudhi Gandaki. Siza kuhlala kweli cala ixeshana. Kamva, siya kuwela enye ibhulorho exhonyiweyo ukubuyela kwicala elingasentshona.

Umzila uya kunyuka. ITatopani ikwimitha engama-990. I-Salieri iku-1360 yeemitha. Sinyukela phezulu.

Sahamba kwilali yaseDobhan. IDobhan inebhulorho yayo yokunqunyanyiswa phezu koMlambo iDobhan. Le bhulorho yenza ukuba idolophu ibukeke intle. Emva kweDobhan, sadlula kwiindawo ezininzi ezincinci. Ezinye iindawo zokuhlala yayiyindlu nje enye. Samisa kwenye idolophu ukuze sitye. Kodwa iibhokhwe neegusha zazithe saa kuwo wonke umgangatho wokutyela. Kwakungekho mntu wayeyicoca. Iimpukane zazigcwele yonke indawo, zibhuqa ukutya kondwendwe nakwinkunkuma yezilwanyana. Bendingafuni kutya apho kuba bekungacocekanga.

Ndiyakwazi ukusingatha izinto ezininzi, kodwa le ndawo yayininzi kakhulu. Babengayikhathaleli impilo yabantu ababetya apho. Ngoko, ndandingafuni ukubanika ishishini lam.

Sahamba malunga nemizuzu engamashumi amathathu ngaphezulu kwendlela. Satya kwenye indawo. Apha, mna noPheri saxoxa ngokudinga umkhokeli kunye nomgcini-mapholi koluhambo. Le ntetho yakhokelela ekubeni uPheri ahambe ngosuku olulandelayo abuyele eKathmandu.

Imozulu yaqalisa ilanga. Kodwa yatshintsha ngokukhawuleza yaza yaba mandundu. Safika kwilali yokuloba yaseYuru Khola. Yakhiwe ematyeni ecaleni koMlambo iBudhi Gandaki. Inezakhiwo ezibalulekileyo ecaleni kwendlela esezantsi. Umzila ophezulu ujikeleza idolophana. Kufuneka usebenzise umzila ophezulu xa umzila osezantsi uphuphuma ngexesha lexesha leemvula.

Umzila ongezantsi awukho lula ukufikelela kumzila ophezulu. Ileli yomthi isekupheleni kwendlela esezantsi. Ileli yenzelwe ekhaya. Izitepsi azifani kwaye ziqelelene. Andikuthandi ukukhwela ileli, ngakumbi ngobhaka. Kodwa ndenyuka ngeleli.

Kwaqalisa ukuthontsiza njengoko sasiwela umlambo kwakhona. Ngeli xesha, safika kwindlela yamatye. Le ndlela iya kwilali yaseJagat. Indlela elapha yenziwe ngamatye amakhulu, asicaba. Ukuhamba phezu kwayo kulula.

IJagat yilali enkulu. Kuye kwafuneka singene kwindawo yokukhangela apha. I-Tsum Valley Trek kunye nengingqi yeManaslu ziindawo ezikhuselweyo. Banciphisa inani leendwendwe ukugcina indalo kunye nenkcubeko. Ilali yaseJagat yenziwe ngamatye. Ineendawo ezininzi zeBuddha (chorten). IJagat inezindlu ezininzi zeendwendwe. Kodwa sagqiba kwelokuba sihambe ngakumbi.

IJagat isemazantsi oMlambo iBhatu Khola. I-Bhatu Khola yenza iingxangxasi kunye ne-rapids njengoko igeleza kuMlambo waseBudhi Gandaki. Sawela umlambo iBhatu Khola salandela indlela yasekuhlaleni. Le ndlela yandenza ndahamba kwiindawo ezithile zomlambo ngokwawo. Amanzi ayebanda kuba ephuma kwimikhenkce. Imozulu ibintle. Kodwa izihlangu zam ezibandayo nezimanzi zazindenza ndingcangcazele.

Samisa kwindwendwe ezikuphela kwayo eSalleri ebusuku. I-Salleri ikumntla nje weJagat. Sancokola noPheri ngokuhamba kwakhe ngomso. I-Ram, i-porter, ikwayi-Peregrine Treks kunye ne-Tour guide. Uya kuhlala nam. Siza kuhlola iTsum Valley kunye. UPheri uye waya eTsum Valley amaxesha amaninzi. Uzakubuyela eKathmandu. Wathi uqaqanjelwa ngumzimba. Mhlawumbi yayiluhambo lwakhe lokugqibela.

Imvula yaqhubeka ubusuku bonke. Indlu yeendwendwe inamagumbi omntu ngamnye. Kodwa akukho mfihlo ingako. Khange ndikwazi ukuwutshixa umnyango ngaphakathi. Ngoko ke, ndangqiyama ubhaka wam ngasemnyango ukuze ndikhuseleke. Ngaphandle kwegumbi lam elikumgangatho wesibini, ilulwane lalisitya izinambuzane ezazibhabha ekukhanyeni. Kwakungekho mnyango wokunqanda ilulwane ngaphandle. Kodwa yahlala ngaphandle apho kwakukho ukutya kwayo.

Usuku lwe-5 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesihlanu, nge-30 ka-Epreli

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, namhlanje iqala ngokuba uPheri ahambe kwangethuba esiya eKathmandu. Imvula iye yacotha, kodwa yanetha ubusuku bonke, nto leyo eqhelekileyo kulo mmandla kufuphi neTsum Valley (nangona sasingekabikho ngokusesikweni eTsum Valley). Kulula kum noRam ukuhamba njengabantu ababini endaweni yabathathu. Eli qela lincinci liya kwenza izinto ngokukhawuleza kwiintsuku ezizayo.

Ukumka kuka Pheri kwathetha ukuba noRam ndandikwazi ukunxibelelana ngcono. Ngaphambili, uRam wayephantsi kwinqanaba njengomgcini. Ngoku, yayisithi sobabini kuphela. Sade safumana ixesha lokuncokola. Ndamfumana uRam engumkhokeli obalaseleyo. Wayenomonde kakhulu ngesantya sam esicothayo sokuhamba. I-arthritis yenza ukuhamba kube buhlungu kwaye kucothe kum.

Emva koko, sabona ingxaki. UPheri wayemke nayo yonke imali yohambo! Ndinemali emalunga nama-7000 eerandi kunye nam. Le yayingeyomali yaneleyo yokugqiba iTsum Valley Trek. Noko ke, asizange sifune ukubuya umva. Sagqiba kwelokuba masiye kuPhilim. I-Philim yidolophana elandelayo apho sasinokufumana khona umnxeba kwaye sitsalele uncedo kuPradip.

Akukho zibhanki kule ndawo. Indawo yokugqibela yokuthumela imali yayinguMachha Khola Gaon, kodwa sasingazi ukuba bangasinika njani imali nalapho. Apha, abantu ikakhulu basebenzisa imali ukurhweba ngeempahla. Kukho ezinye iinketho ezimbalwa zemali.

Imvula yaba yinkungu ekhaphukhaphu xa sasimka eSalleri. Saqhubekeka ngasentla kwindlela. Sadlula ePaimo, idolophu yeziporho. Akusekho mntu uhlala apho. Ukudilika kwamatye kwasitshabalalisa eso sixeko.

Ii-rockslides zixhaphakile kwixesha le-monsoon. Umhlaba uba manzi kakhulu, kwaye amatye ayaxebuka. Xa amatye eqalisa ukuwa, atshabalalisa yonke into esendleleni yawo. Iilali zonke zinokutshatyalaliswa ngokukhawuleza. Abantu abaninzi nezilwanyana banokufa. Ikwenza uqonde ukuba buthathaka kangakanani ubomi kwiiHimalaya. Abantu abahlala apha basinda abomeleleyo. Baphila nangona bejamelene neengozi ezininzi.

Umzila waqala ukunyuka umnqantsa. Sidlule kwiindonga zikaMani. Ezi ndonga zinemithandazo yamaBhuda ekroliweyo kuzo. Sehlika sajikeleza ilali yaseSirdibas. Kukho imijelo emincinci eSirdibas. Amashishini okusila okuziinkozo asekuhlaleni asebenzisa le mijelo ukwenza amandla.

Ukudlula nje eSirdibas, sawela ibhulorho ende exhonyiweyo. Eli yayilixesha lethu lokugqibela ukuwela uMlambo iBudhi Gandaki. Ukuba sasiqhubeka sisiya emantla, sasiya kufika kwiNtaba iManaslu. Kodwa senza iTsum Valley Trek. Ngoko, sawelela kwicala elingasempuma lomlambo saza senyuka induli ukuya kwidolophana yaseFilim.

I-Philim yidolophana yokugqibela enkulu esiza kuyibona okwethutyana. Inesikolo, iihotele ezintathu, iivenkile ezithile, ifowuni, nokutya okumnandi. Sabiza uPradip wasePhilim. Samxelela ngengxaki yethu yemali. Wathi ukuba sinokufika eLamagaon, sinokucela imali-mboleko kumhlobo wakhe osehotele. Ukuba siyilumkele imali yethu, sinokwaneleyo ukuya eLamagaon.

Sahlala phantsi satya. Sasidla ama-momos emifuno kunye ne-yak cheese kunye ne-ketchup. Ndiqale ukuthanda iketchup kakhulu apha. Mhlawumbi yi potassium, kodwa ndifuna ukuyidla. Ngelishwa, le inokuba yenye yeendawo zokugqibela zokufumana i-ketchup.

Sadlula kwindawo ekuhlolwa kuyo saza sabhalisa amaphepha-mvume ethu. Emva koko, saya emantla kwakhona. Umzila wawulandela intaba. Yehla inyuka. Imilambo emincinane yenza iingxangxasi ezintle njengoko yayiwela ezintabeni. Iingxangxasi zaphumela kuMlambo iBudhi Gandaki kude ngezantsi. Amaxhalanga abhabha phezu kwethu, ejikeleza kumoya oshushu. Bakhangela ukutya entlanjeni. Amafu athi shwaka. Isibhakabhaka saba nelanga kwaye sibe luhlaza.

Sadlula kwiidolophana ezimbini ezikwimpuma yomlambo. Owokuqala yayingu-Eklebote. Inombono omkhulu womlambo. Owesibini yaba nguChisapani. Amanzi abandayo aphuma kwiimpompo zaseChisapani ukuze asetyenziswe ngabantu. Ayikho ilali inkulu. Bobabini baqalisa ukwakha izindlu zeendwendwe.

Emva kwe-Eklebote, zazingasekho iilali. Impucuko yaphela. Sahamba saya ngasemantla. Izindlu zanyamalala. Sabona amabhabhathane amibalabala ebhabha ejikeleza. Kodwa ubukhulu becala sasisedwa, singababoni abanye abantu.

Sifike apho uMlambo waseChhilung Khola ugeleza kuMlambo waseBudhi Gandaki. Umlambo waseBudhi Gandaki uncinci kakhulu apha. Iqengqeleka ematyeni. Apha, sibone umqondiso wokusamkela kwiTsum Valley Trek! Besifikile emnyango.

Sasingekabikho eTsum Valley ngokwayo. Kwakusafuneka sihambe kumwonyo omxinwa ukuze singene kwintlambo esezantsi. Le ndawo kusenokwenzeka ukuba ingumda weKomiti yoPhuhliso lwelali. Apha, umzila wahlukana. Ukuba uya ngasekhohlo, ufikelela kwiNdlela yeManaslu. Uwela uMlambo waseBudhi Gandaki kwibhulorho encinci yentsimbi ukuya eManaslu. Ukuba uhlala ulungile, ukukuphela kwendlela eya kwiTsum Valley Trek.

Uhambo oluya eTsum Valley lwanyukela phezulu. Sasinokukhangela ezantsi kwindlela yaseManaslu njengoko sasinyuka. Injongo yethu yayiyilali yaseLokpa. ILokpa iphakamile ngeemitha ezingama-805 kuneSirdibas.

Ukunyuka kwakungumnqantsa. Ngamanye amaxesha, kwakukho amanyathelo. Ngamanye amaxesha, sasihamba phezu kwamatye. Kwakusemva kwemini. Imozulu yaqalisa ukuba mbi. Yaqalisa ukuna. Kwanetha imvula eLokpa.

Ngenxa yemithi nemvula, asizange sibone ukuba siyawushiya uMlambo iBudhi Gandaki. Umlambo waseBudhi Gandaki ufumana amanzi awo kwi-glaciers enyibilikayo yeNtaba yaseManaslu. Umlambo wokuqala omkhulu ongena kuwo yiSyar Khola. ISyar Khola ngumlambo omkhulu weTsum Valley. Umlambo waseSyar Khola wenza umwonyo omxinwa. Kufuneka sihambe kulo mwonyo ukuze sifikelele kwiNtlambo yaseTsum esezantsi.

Ilali yaseLokpa idlula nje apho kuhlangana khona imilambo phambi komwonyo. Inendlu yeendwendwe enye kuphela, ivenkile encinci, kunye nezindlu ezimbalwa ezikufutshane nayo. Lokpa ayiyolali ingako, kodwa besonwabile ukubalapho. Sasidiniwe, sigodola yaye silambile.

Sifike eLokpa sekumnyama. Ndaya ekhitshini ndiyofudumeza umlilo. Iqondo lobushushu lehlile laya kutsho malunga ne-12°C. Ngoku sasiku-2240 yeemitha ukuphakama. Sayiva ingqele. Ndibuyisele iindawo ezisezantsi kwibhulukhwe yam ye-zip-off ukuze ndifudumale. Ndasela iti eshushu emlilweni.

ULobsang Furgang uqhuba iHotele yeTsum eNtsha. Ungumhlolo onabantwana abasixhenxe. Wakha indlu yeendwendwe. Inamagumbi amancinci aphezulu okulala. Uninzi lwamagumbi alala abantu ababini. Kukho nje isithuba esaneleyo phakathi kweebhedi zokuhamba. Amagumbi amabini "amanye" amagumbi. La magumbi mancinci, afana namagumbi. Bakhulu ngokwaneleyo ukuba bangangqengqa. Kufuneka ukhase kula magumbi ukuze ulale.

Sizindwendwe kuphela ngokuhlwanje. Ndiyalele i-macaroni kunye ne-yak cheese kunye ne-ketchup eninzi. Ndalaqaza evenkileni. Inezinto ezininzi ezivela eTshayina. Abantu balapha bafumana izixhobo ikakhulu eTibet. Bangakwazi ukuwela umda kunye neeyaks ngokulula.

Into yokuqala endayibonayo yi-Lhasa Beer kwiitoti. Yayixabiso eliphantsi kunebhiya emva kufutshane ne-Arughat Bazar. Babenewayini yerhasi kwitoti evela eTshayina. Yayinencasa eyahlukileyo, kodwa yayigqibelele. Le venkile iphinde yathengisa iiteki ezininzi ezingabizi kakhulu kumbala omnye osuka eTshayina. Zixabisa i-860 yeerandi. Ndingene phantsi kwengubo eshinyeneyo kwigumbi lam eliphezulu. Kungekudala, ndabiwa bubuthongo.

Usuku lwe-6 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoMgqibelo, Meyi 1st

KwiDayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, namhlanje iqala ngokugqatswa kwelanga kwangethuba. Yalila kakhulu inkuku. Wayesazi ukuba asinakumtya. Abantu balo mmandla wamaBhuda abayityi inyama. Azibulali nantoni na ephilayo. Lo mqhagi wawuqaqambile. Wayesazi ukuba wayekhuselekile ekubeni sisidlo sethu sangokuhlwa.

Ndehlika ndayokutya isidlo sakusasa e dining room. Namhlanje iya kuba yimini ende. Siza kunyuka kwi-canyon ukufikelela kwiNtlambo yeTsum esezantsi. Kwakubanda. Kodwa ukuphuma kwelanga kwakuthembisa imini eshushu.

Ndajonga kwilali yaseLokpa. Kwakungekho nto ingako yokubona. Noko ke, iNtaba iManaslu yayikhangeleka yoyikeka ngasentshona. Yayimhlophe qhwa kwisibhakabhaka esiluhlaza. Yayiyimbonakalo entle xa ukwindawo ephakamileyo yethu. Mna noRam salungisa izinto zethu. Emva koko, saqala uhambo lwethu ukuya kwiNtlambo yaseTsum ethintelweyo.

I-Tsum Valley ivaliwe kubantu bangaphandle kude kube kutshanje. Kodwa abantu balapha babalungiselele kakuhle abakhenkethi. Izindlu zeendwendwe kunye neendawo zokuhlala zifumaneka phantse kuzo zonke iilali ngoku. Nkqu nezindlu zeemonki ezimbini zamaBhuda ezazikade zichasa abakhenkethi ngoku zirenta amagumbi.

I-Tsum Valley lilizwe lamaBhuda aseTibet. Phantse ilali nganye ineLama neGumba (ikhaya loonongendi). Uninzi lweeGumbas azinazo iimonki ezihlala apho ngalo lonke ixesha. Kuphela ngexesha lemithendeleko apho iimonki ziza. Ngokuqhelekileyo, idolophana yamaLama inyamekela iGumba kwaye icamngca apho.

Sifike kweyona ndawo iphezulu yendlela eLokpa. Ngoku, umzila waqala ukuhla. Sabona abasebenzi besakha ibhulorho entsha kumlambo wokuqala. Iya kuthatha indawo yebhulorho yamaplanga endala, eshukumayo ethe kratya ezantsi.

Ukwakha iibhulorho ezixhonywe kwii-Himalaya ngumsebenzi onzima. Ezi bhulorho zenzelwe abahambi kunye needonki kuphela. Kodwa yonke into eyenza abantu kufuneka ithwalwe ngazo. Intambo, iintsimbi, nekonkile zazithwalwa ziidonki okanye ngabantu.

Abantu baseNepali bangabathwali abanamandla. Basebenzisa umtya ebunzi ukuze bathwale imithwalo enzima. Ziyakwazi ukuthwala iikhilogram ezili-100 ngolu hlobo, zinyuka zisihla iintaba.

Kwisiza sokwakhiwa kwebhulorho, iintsapho zazihlala kwiintente zeplastiki. Baza kuhlala apho de kugqitywe ibhulorho. Emva koko baya kuzidiliza iintente zabo. Ezinye iintsapho ziya kubuyela kwiifama zazo. Abanye baya kuya kumsebenzi olandelayo wokwakha ibhulorho.

Abasebenzisi zixhobo zamandla apha. Yonke into yenziwa ngesandla. Ngumsebenzi ocothayo. Kodwa ayikho enye indlela apha.

Enye ibhulorho yokunqunyanyiswa yayingaphantsi kwendlela. Kodwa saya kwibhulorho endala eyenziwe ngamaplanga. Kufuphi nebhulorho endala, uMlambo iLungwa Khola uneengxangxasi ezintle. Ndema ndafota. Sawuva umlambo iSyar Khola ungxamile emva kwethu.

Umkhondo wokuhla wawungumnqantsa kwaye maxa wambi uburhabaxa. Usukelo lwethu yayiyiSardi Gorge. Umlambo waseSyar uqukuqela kumjelo omxinwa kulo mwonyo. Lo mwonyo ngowona wokungena kwiTsum Valley Trek.

Umhlaba ophambi kwalo mwonyo wawuluhlaza kwaye uchumile. Kwakukho izityalo ezininzi namanzi. Lo mhlaba uluhlaza watsala amaBhuda aseTibet kwiminyaka eyi-1000 eyadlulayo. Bazinza apha. Kwakhona yayiyindawo ekhuselekileyo yokuzimela iintshaba. I-Tsum Valley yayinzima ukungena. Oku kwahlulwa kwabanceda bagcina indlela yabo yokuphila ingatshintshwanga lihlabathi langaphandle.

Umzila wawukwicala elingasezantsi loMlambo iSyar. Yayiziimitha nje ezimbalwa phezu komlambo kumathambeka. Umzila wawumxinwa njengoko wawusihla. Lo mwonyo wawuyeyona ndawo imxinwa kwaye iphantsi yeTsum Valley Trek. Emva kokuba sidlule kulo mwonyo neendonga zawo eziphakamileyo zamatye, sasidla ngokuqalisa ukunyuka kwakhona.

Asizange sidibane nabanye abantu basemzini endleleni. Kodwa sadibana nabantu baseTsum Valley. Basibulisa ngobubele ngokuthi “Namaste!”. Kwezinye iindawo zaseNepal, abantu basemzini baqhelekile. Kodwa apha, abantu basamangaliswe kukusibona. Abakhenkethi abaninzi batyelela iTsum Valley Trek, kodwa amanani asephantsi.

Abantu baseTsum Valley banoxolo. Bamkela kakhulu. Baphatha wonke umntu ongamaziyo njengosapho. Abantu basipha amaqanda, utywala basekuhlaleni obubizwa ngokuba yiRoxy, nezinye izipho ukuze nje sibe nobubele.

Ngokukhawuleza saphawula ukuba akukho zindlu kule nxalenye yendlela. Abantu abahlali apha emfuleni. Lo mzila uza kuphumela kwintlambo ukuya kwiNtlambo yaseTsum. Okubuhlungu kukuba, emva kwaloo mwonyo, sabona amanzi amancinane imini yonke. Ibhotile yam yamanzi ibisiya iphelelwa. Umoya wawomile, yaye kwakufuneka ndisele.

Kwakukho “idolophana” enye kuphela ephawulwe emephini. Yayibizwa ngokuba yiGumkhola. IGum Khola River iwela ezantsi intaba ungene eSyar Khola eGum Khola. Ilali yayiyindlu nje enye. Yayiyindlu yeti ephethwe yindoda kunye nomtshana wayo omncinci, owayemalunga neminyaka emine ubudala. Umtshana wayethandeka. Wabulisa wonke umntu ngokuthi “Namaste” waza wathabatha imali yokuthenga. Safika emva kwemini. Ndibize iti kuqala. Emva koko, ndaqonda ukuba ikwayivenkile kunye nendawo yokutya. Ngoko, ndayalela iCoca-Cola ebandayo. Bawugcina ubanda kumanzi oMlambo iGum Khola.

Le ndoda nomtshana wayo babenobuhlobo. URam wathetha nabo ndijonge ithole elisandula ukuzalwa eshedini ekufutshane.

Ukudlula nje eGumkhola, umzila wahlukana. Ukuba uhamba ngokufanelekileyo, ufikelela kwilali yaseRipche. Ukuba uya ngasekhohlo, ufika eChumling. IChumling yeyona dolophana iphambili kule ndawo kunye nenjongo yethu namhlanje.

Umkhondo wethu wawunqumla kwibhulorho enqunyanyiswayo phezu kweSyar Khola. Emva koko, sanyukela kwicala elingasemantla entlambo. Umzila waba umva. Ilali yakwaGumkhola yayikhangeleka incinci kwaye incinci ezantsi kwethu.

Ekugqibeleni, umkhondo wakhula. Sahamba phantsi kweKani. I-Kani iphawula indlela yokungena kwiilali zaseTsum Valley. I-Kani lisango eliqhelekileyo laseTibetan. Ibonisa ukwahlukana phakathi kwedolophu kunye nommandla wasendle ngaphandle.

IiKanis zihlala zenziwe ngamatye. Bahlala benemizobo emibalabala yoothixo bamaBhuda kunye nabakhuseli beelali. I-Kanis nayo inokunika ikhusi emvuleni. Ngethamsanqa, asizange sifune ikhusi xa sifika eChumling. Isibhakabhaka sasinelanga.

IChumling yeyona dolophana iphambili kwindawo yaseChumling. Inezindlu ezimbini zeendwendwe. Ikwanayo neGumba endala kakhulu. Bakha ngokutsha iGumba kuba imozulu iyonakalise kangangeenkulungwane.

Sahlala eTsum Valley Himal Hotel. Yayinegumbi elinye elikhulu, elicocekileyo elineengubo ezishinyeneyo neebhedi ezininzi. Yayinamanzi ahluziweyo simahla. Indawo yokutyela yayivuliwe kwelinye icala. Sa order isidlo sangokuhlwa apho. Imenyu yokutya yayincinci. Kodwa yayiyindawo entle yokuhlala.

Amadoda edonki

Amadoda aliqela noololiwe beedonki ahlala ehotele, nawo. Inkoliso yabo yayiselula yaye ijonge ukuzonwabisa. Ukusebenza noololiwe beedonki yindlela elungileyo yokufumana imali ezintabeni.

Umsebenzi unzima. Bahamba needonki baziqhube behamba. Basebenza unyaka wonke. Barhola malunga ne-18,000 yeerandi okanye ngaphezulu ngenyanga nganye. Le yimali entle ezintabeni. Kodwa umsebenzi uyingozi. Idonki nganye ithwala malunga neekhilogram ezingama-60-65 zempahla. Iimpahla ziquka ioli, icuba, iwiski, kunye nesoda.

Ngamanye amaxesha, iidonki zithwala iitanki zepropane. Iidonki kuphela kwendlela yokufumana iitanki zegesi ezintabeni. Amanye ala madoda asuka kumda weTibet aye eChoking kuhambo lwaseManaslu. Bahamba ekhephuni, emvuleni, nakuzo zonke iintlobo zemozulu ukuze bagcine iidonki zihamba. Iidonki zinokuba nenkani. Amadoda avuka ngo-3 AM yonke imihla. Bazikhwelisa ezidonkini iimpahla zabo baze bahambe.

Umnikazi wedonki yayinguPuina Bahadur Gurung, oneminyaka engama-30 ubudala. Waqala njengomqeqeshi weedonki eneminyaka eyi-17. Wagcina imali yokuthenga iidonki zakhe.

Iidonki ziyabiza. Zixabisa malunga ne-70,000 ukuya kwi-90,000 yeeRupees nganye. UPurina wathi idonki enye inokusebenza iminyaka emalunga ne-16 nangaphezulu ukuba inyanyekelwe kakuhle. Utshatile kwaye uhlala eSoti Khola. Wenza iihambo ezine ngenyanga ukusuka kumda weTibet ukuya eSoti Khola. Uneedonki ezisibhozo.

Ngokuqhelekileyo, abanini-donki bahamba ngamaqela. Ikhuselekile ngakumbi ngaloo ndlela. Nala madoda athwala imali ezintabeni ukuya emarikeni. Bathenga iimpahla kwaye babuye nemali evela kwiintengiso. Ayizothutho kuphela. Bakwafana neebhanki zeentaba.

Enye ingozi ziidonki eziwela kwiindledlana zentaba. Iidonki zilungile ngeenyawo. Kodwa kuyingozi xa iidonki zidibana kwiindlela ezimxinwa. Ngamanye amaxesha, idonki iyawa isuka entabeni. Le yilahleko yomntu wonke. Ukuba idonki iyawa, ngokuqhelekileyo ayinakusindiswa. Ixesha leemonsoon lineengozi zalo. I-Rockslides inokutshabalalisa wonke uloliwe weedonki ngemizuzu.

Phezu kwazo nje iingozi, la madoda angabahlobo. Kubonakala ngathi bayakonwabela ukusebenza ezindleleni. Ikwayindlela elungileyo yokufumana imali ezintabeni apho kukho imisebenzi embalwa.

Usuku 7 lweTsum Valley Trek Diary

NgeCawa, nge-2 kaMeyi

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, iCawe iqale ngomqhagi ongxolayo. Yalila kwangethuba inkuku. Wayesazi ukuba asinakumtya. NjengamaBhuda, abantu balapha abayityi inyama. Azenzakalisi nasiphi na isidalwa esiphilayo. Lo mqhagi wawukhuselekile ekubeni ube sisidlo sakusasa.

Ndiye edining room for breakfast. Namhlanje, ukungena kwethu kweTsum Valley Trek Diary kuya kuchaza usuku olude. Siza kunyuka intaba i-800 yeemitha kwindlela engumnqantsa, emxinwa. Sisuka eChumling siya eChumchet.

UChumling kunye neChumchet basondele kwimephu. Kodwa kum, yayingathi luhambo lwemini yonke. I-Chumling isentlanjeni. I-Chumchet iphezulu phezulu kwi-ridge. UChumling uziva engowangoku ngakumbi. I-Chumchet iqhelekile kuneNtlambo yeTsum.

Ukuthi iChumling "yidolophu" iyahlekisa, nangona kunjalo. Yizindlu nje ezimbalwa, iindwendwe ezimbini, kunye neGomba endala. Nangona kunjalo, iChumling ikwindlela ephambili eya kwintlambo ephezulu. UChumchet ufumana iindwendwe ezimbalwa. Abantu baseChumchet banemveli kakhulu. Abafane bahlambe. Ubuso babo buhlala bumdaka ngomle. Iimpahla zabo zihlala zingahlanjwanga. Oku kuqhelekile eChumchet. Kwakhona, abaninzi apha bathetha kuphela isiyelelane saseTibet sasekuhlaleni, hayi isiNepali. Abaninzi banemfundo encinane. Isikolo sikude, yaye ootitshala basenokungasoloko bekhona.

IChumling inomhlaba othe tyaba othe tyaba wokulima—i-Chumchet ifama kumathafa akwiintaba eziphakamileyo. Iindawo zokuhlala eChumchet zimxinwa kakhulu. Zibanzi ngokwaneleyo nje imiqolo emibini yombona.

Iicawe nazo zinamanzi amancinci. IChumling inemithombo emininzi yamanzi. Ke, iChumling kunye neChumchet zahluke kakhulu.

Kukho izizathu zokuba kutheni abantu baseTsum Valley bengahlambi rhoqo. Amanzi anqabile, ngakumbi amanzi angengawo amanzi angumkhenkce. Ukuhlamba emanzini omkhenkce kubanda kakhulu. Amanzi abandayo anokothusa umzimba wakho. Kunzima ukuqhela.

Iishawa ezishushu azikho apha. Abantu bahlamba kwiindawo zikawonke-wonke. Akukho mntu ufuna ukukhulula umoya obandayo ngamanzi abandayo.

Izindlu azifudunyezwa. Ngaphandle kwesitovu sentsimbi saseTshayina ekhitshini, izindlu ziyabanda. Abantu bahlanganisana ekhitshini ukuze bafumane ukufudumala. Ekuqaleni, babesebenzisa imililo yeenkuni ezivulekileyo. Ngoku, izitovu zesinyithi zaseTshayina ziqhelekileyo. Basuka eTibet. Ngokufuthi, ezi zitovu azinayo itshimini. Ubushushu buhlala kwigumbi. Kodwa kunjalo nomsi kunye nomsizi. Abantu bayawuqhela umsi nothuthu. Uthuthu lugubungela yonke into emnyama.

Abantu baseTibet banzima kakhulu kubanda. Bayakwazi ukuhamba benganxibanga zihlangu ekhephini. Abafumani ingqele ngokukhawuleza. Oomama babeka ibhotolo yeyak kwiintsana. Bakholelwa ukuba ikhusela kwimimoya emdaka nokubanda. Ulusu lwabo luba lukhuni okwesikhumba, ngakumbi iinyawo zabo. Banokuhamba benganxibanga zihlangu kumatye abukhali nokunyuka iintaba ngokulula.

Abantu baseChumling babonakala becocekile ngakumbi. Babefana nabantu abakwezinye iindawo zehlabathi ngokuphathelele ucoceko. UChumchet wayehlukile. Bekufanelekile ukubona ukuqonda iTsum Valley Trek yemveli.

Saqala saya eChumchet ekuseni. Indawo yethu yokuqala yaba yiChumling Paykup Gompa monastery. Ineminyaka engaphezu kwama-600 ubudala. Yenye yeemonki ezindala eTsum Valley. Namhlanje, isakhiwo sikwimeko embi. Kodwa sive ukuba bazakuqala ukwakha entsha ngomso. Iminyaka yemozulu embi ye-Himalaya yonakalise isakhiwo esidala.

Ngaphakathi kwakukho imifanekiso eqingqiweyo kaBuddha noothixo basekuhlaleni. Kwakukho ivili lomthandazo elikhulu elilingana negumbi. Esi sakhiwo sasingenabushushu. IiLamas nabanquli beza apha ukuze bathandaze kwaye bacamngce, nokuba kubanda.

Izinto ezixabisekileyo kwezi Gomba yimisongo, kungekhona nje imifanekiso eqingqiweyo. Banemibhalo engcwele yaseTibet. Imisongo emininzi ifundisa ngamazwi kaBuddha. ULamas uyafunda kwaye acamngce ngale misongo. IGompa yindawo ebalulekileyo yeetekisi ezingcwele.

Iindidi ezahlukeneyo zeBuddhism yaseTibet zenziwa kwiTsum Valley. Ziyafana kodwa ziyahluka. EChumling Paykup Gomba, amaLama akatshati. Nangona kunjalo, eChumchet, uLama utshatile kwaye unabantwana. Kukho iindidi ezintlanu eziphambili zobuBhuda baseTibet kumantla eNepal: iNyingmapa, iKagyupa, iSakyapa, iGelugpa, neBön. Andizange ndifunde ukungafani kwabo kule Tsum Valley Trek, ngaphandle kokuba iNyingmapa Lamas ayitshati. Le Gomba inokuba nguNyingmapa.

Le Gomba ikwinduli encinci. Ijonge kwiifama eziyingqongileyo. Imini yayinelanga. Iintaba zazintle, zineencopho ezigqunywe likhephu ezibengezela lilanga.

Emva koGomba, sadlula kwiifama. Umzila wawumcaba kwaye umxinwa. Iindonga zamatye ziphawule imida yeefama. Umzila osicaba waphela ngokukhawuleza. Saqalisa ukunyuka intaba.

Sadibana nabantu basekuhlaleni. Bancuma ngamazinyo amhlophe qhwa kubuso babo obunodaka. Basinika amaqanda ezipokothweni zabo. Kwenye indawo, basela uRoxy, utywala bendawo. Basinika intwana yokusela kwiibhotile zabo ezisetyenzisiweyo zesoda. Sathi hayi sizisela kodwa sakuvuyela ukuncokola nabo.

Umzila waba ngumnqantsa. Sangena kwihlathi lepine. Ihlathi laye lacutheka kancinci. Imithi yaba mbalwa. Emva koko, imithi yanyamalala ngokupheleleyo. Ngequbuliso, seva ivumba lemisedare. Amanzi aqukuqela apha isiqingatha sonyaka. Iimvula zemvula kunye neemvula ezinkulu zenza imilambo yethutyana. Oku kwenza umhlaba ufume. Kukwakho nemiqolomba emininzi emincinci emaweni. Uninzi lweeChortens zamaBuddha zikwindawo ephezulu ecaleni kwendlela.

AmaBhuda akha iChortens ukuze ahlonele abafileyo. Bakholelwa ukuba izisa amathamsanqa kubomi babo obulandelayo. Iichortens zenziwe ngamatye. Banamatye anengoma yaseTibetan ethi “Om mani padme hum” kuwo. IiChortens zikwayindawo yokuphumla efanelekileyo kubahambi. URam wafumana indawo enengca. Wangqengqa ukuze alale. Ndamthelela. Salala emva kwemini enelanga.

Akukho zindlu okanye iivenkile endleleni eya eCaweni. Umhlaba umnqantsa kakhulu ukuba ungalinywa kwiindawo ezininzi. Ngokuyintloko yindalo yasendle. Asizange sibe nesidlo sasemini. Silambe sade sayofika eChumchet.

Sade sayofika eLower Chumchet sekuhlwile. IChumchet esezantsi zizindlu nje ezimbalwa. Abantu basibulisa bencumile. Babeneentloni ekuqaleni xa ndifota. Kodwa bathi bakubona imifanekiso yabo, batshintsha. Baqalisa ukufota. Baye babamba izinto zokubonisa.

Mhlawumbi eli yayilixesha labo lokuqala ukubona ikhamera yedijithali. Ingayiyo. Le ndawo ayiboni abaninzi bangaphandle. Abantu bangaphandle babegcinwe kude kude kube ngu-2008.

Sagqiba ukufota. Emva koko, saya kwilali engasentla. Sakhangela ooLama ukuze sibuze ngokuhlala apho. ICawa yaseUpper yayingenabuhlobo kangako. Abantu abazange bavule naxa sinkqonkqoza. Yayahluke kakhulu kwilali esezantsi.

Kodwa sayifumana indlu kaLama. ILama Buchimallama ibiyilali iLama iminyaka eli-10. IGomba lakhe likwimizuzu elishumi elinesihlanu ukuya kwiyure enye phezu kwedolophu. Bekurhatyela. Okubuhlungu kukuba kuye kwanyanzeleka ukuba singavumi ukuya kuGomba wakhe ngoko. Yena nosapho lwakhe banendawo yokuhlala. Basamkela ekhayeni labo. Basihlalisa phantsi kwigumbi elincinane. Eli gumbi lalikwayinkonzo yabo yasekhaya. Besizolala apha ebusuku.

Beza neengubo neemethi. Basibekela iimethi phantsi obandayo. Kwakungekho zitulo. Ngaphandle, kwakusele ku-10 ° C nge-5 PM. Kwakuza kubanda njengoko ilanga litshona. Bekungekho heater kweli gumbi. Ndazigquma ngengubo. Bendivuya ndize nempahla yangaphantsi ende. Bendizoyibeka ethubeni.

Ekuqaleni abantwana babengekho. Bakroba kwiifestile zegumbi ukuze basijonge. Sasifana nezilwanyana kumyezo wezilwanyana kubo. Emva koko, kwafika uLama evela ekhitshini. Weza neti yebhotolo eqhumayo.

Iti yebhotolo sisiselo saseTibetan. Yiti enebhotolo yak. Yayinencasa. Kodwa inencasa engaqhelekanga. Kuthatha ixesha ukuqhela.

Ibhotolo kwiti ibonakala ngathi ngamanqatha amaninzi. Kodwa ekutyeni kwabo, bafuna amafutha ukuze bahlale befudumele. Batya umbona, ingqolowa, irhasi, irayisi neetapile. Abayityi inyama apha. Iti yebhotolo ibanika amafutha afuneka kakhulu.

URam wenze isonka ngesidlo sangokuhlwa. Baqhubeka bezisa iti yebhotolo. Kamva, iLama yatshintshela kwiRoxy. I-Roxy butywala bengingqi obenziwe ngerhasi. Abantu basela yonke imini: isidlo sakusasa, isidlo sasemini kunye nesidlo sakusihlwa. URoxy ucacile. Enye iRoxy yomelele. Abanye babuthathaka, njengamanzi. Ndasela uRoxy nomninimzi wethu. Yandenza ndaziva ndifudumele. Yayingenayo i-aftertaste yeti yebhotolo.

Ukutshona kwelanga. Ekuphela kokukhanya kwelo gumbi yayizizibane zebhotolo ezisesibingelelweni kunye neglowubhu enye esebenza ngelanga. Abantwana babelala kwiveranda ngaphandle. Iifestile zazingenazo iiglasi, kunomoya obandayo wasentabeni ongena endlwini. Ndingene kwi sleeping bag yam ndanxiba ingubo phezu kwam. Ndalala ngokukhawuleza.

Usuku lwe-8 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoMvulo, nge-3 kaMeyi

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, mna noRam savuka ngokukhanya kwelanga. Langena kwangethuba ilanga endlini. Yayiza kuba yimini emnandi. Okulusizi kukuba, kwakusina emva kwemini.

Abantwana bebesele bevukile, besijongile. ULama weza neti yebhotolo eshushu. Ndasela iti eshushu. URam waya ekhitshini eyokwenza isonka sesidlo sakusasa.

Abantwana baba nesibindi kancinci. Kodwa bahlala bebuyile. Bangena ngokulambisa egumbini. Ekugqibeleni, ikati yafika. Yahlala ecakwam. Abantwana bagqiba kwelokuba ndilungile – andizange ndiyitye ikati! Babesalumkile. Kodwa basondela kancinci.

IChumchet ikwiimitha ezingama-3200 ukuphakama. Sasihamba ngeenyawo ukuya eTumje. I-Tumje iku-2440 yeemitha. Besingahla ngeemitha ezingama-760 namhlanje.

Izolo, siye sabona iintyatyambo ezincinane eziluhlaza, ezityheli, nezimhlophe endleleni. Namhlanje kuya kwahluka. Sasiza kubona uhlaza oluncinane kule ndledlana yasentabeni ngaphandle kwemilambo embalwa emincinane.

Intaba yomile. Ngokuya sisondela kuTumje, yayibonakala yoma. Ukufumana amanzi okugcwalisa ibhotile yam kwakhona kuya kuba nzima imini yonke. Umzila wawukhangeleka ungenanto. Sabona abantu abambalwa kakhulu. Nangona kunjalo, sabona udyakalashe phezu kwethu.

Ngokutsho kwamaLama, iChumchet inabantu abamalunga nama-40. Kukho izindlu ezimalunga ne-70, akukho zindlu zeendwendwe, iGomba, nesikolo samabanga aphantsi. Isikolo siqhele ukuvalwa, utshilo. Indlu yakhe yayibonakala ikuphela kwendawo yokuhlala iindwendwe. Kwakumnandi, yaye yena nomfazi wakhe babesamkela ngezandla ezishushu.

Uhambo lokuhla luqale kwangoko. Sadlula ilali enye kuphela endleleni ehlayo. Igama layo laliyiKhar. Yayizizindlu nje ezimbalwa. Amadoda ayephumile esebenza. Sabona abafazi abambalwa besebenza. Bendinethemba lokufumana ivenkile encinci eneCoca-Cola. Akukho thamsanqa. Ilali yaseKhar yayingenazo iivenkile kwaphela.

URam wayedla ngokuhamba phambi kwam. Uhamba ngokukhawuleza. Ndiyithandile le. Indinike ixesha lokonwabela iimbono ngaphandle kokuziva ndingxamile. Ndiyazi ukuba ndiyacotha. Ndiyazi ukuba kunzima kubakhokeli kunye nabathwali bempahla abaqhele ukuhamba ngokukhawuleza kula matye.

Sahlala sisehla. Amafu afihla iintaba. Ndeva iindudumo zisitsho ngamandla. Iqondo lobushushu lehlile. Wenyuka umoya. Emva koko, yaqalisa ukuna ngokuthe ngcembe.

Akwaba bendize neeglavu ezikhanyayo. Ndisebenzisa iintonga ezimbini zokuhamba. Izandla zam zazigodola. Ndandinetshefu enkulu ngakumbi. Ndafaka isandla esinye kuyo ukuze ifudumale. Esinye isandla sasinomkhenkce kwaye sibuhlungu.

Ezantsi… ezantsi… ndehla intaba, ndaya. Ndityibilike ematyeni njengoko ndihamba ngomva. Bendingamboni uRam. Ekugqibeleni ndambona. Wayezikhusele emvuleni kumqolomba omncinane.

Ndema phandle ndinxibe idyasi yam yemvula etyheli. Ngenye imini, ndandicinga ukuba kushushu kakhulu. Namhlanje, yayigqibelele ngokuchasene nomoya obandayo weHimalaya kunye nemvula.

Ilali yaseDomje yindawo yokungena kwiNtlambo yaseTsum engasentla. Kulapho kuhlangana khona imilambo emithathu. Imilambo emibini ingena kwiSyar Khola apha. Lo mmandla ngumhlaba weefama. Kodwa ilali yaseDomje yayingabonakali ngathi inobutyebi.

Siye sahlala kwi guest house eDomje qha. Kwaqhutywa phantsi. Kwakufuneka sinyuke ileli eshukumayo ukuya kwindawo yokulala. Lwavalwa ucango, kodwa akuzange kube namsebenzi. Ifestile enkulu, malunga ne-5 × 5 iinyawo, yayihlala ivuliwe. Kwelinye icala yayinefestile encinci engenasigqubuthelo. Iibhedi yayizibhodi zomthi nje. Ndabeka i-sleeping bag yam ndaza ndanxiba ingubo ngaphezulu. Kwakusemva kwemini. Iqondo lobushushu lalisele liyi-8°C. Kwavuthuza umoya egumbini.

Babengenakutya okuninzi. Kodwa uRam wafumana iitapile ezibilisiweyo. Sabafudumeza. Ngethamsanqa, babeneCoca-Cola. Kwakumnandi kwaye kubanda. Ngubani ofuna isikhenkcezisi xa unemisinga yeentaba ezibandayo kufutshane?

Usuku lwe-9 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesibini, umhla wesi-4 ku-XNUMX

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, injongo yanamhlanje ibiyiLamagaon. ILamagaon yaziva ngathi ikude, indawo yasentsomini kuthi. Ukufikelela eLamagaon yayiyeyona njongo yethu iphambili. Sasinethemba lokuboleka imali eyaneleyo apho ukuze sigqibezele uhambo lwethu lwaseTsum Valley. Namhlanje, siceba ukunyuka siye kwintlambo ephezulu. Ekugqibeleni sasiza kufika kwindawo yethu yokumisa ebalulekileyo.

Ngo-6 AM, yayingu-7°C. Bendingafuni uphuma kwi sleeping bag yam. Ilanga lalibonakala lihle, kodwa igumbi lalibanda. Kwavuthuza umoya egumbini. Noko indawo yam yokulala yomile. Ndandingaqinisekanga ngezinye iindawo kweli gumbi.

URam wenze isonka esicaba ngesidlo sakusasa. Satya ngokukhawuleza sahamba. Sahamba emasimini. Emva koko, sajoyina umzila. Umzila ukhokelele kwibhulorho enqunyanyiswayo phezu komlambo. Kwangethuba endleleni, ndaphinda ndaphathwa sisisu. Andazi ukuba kwakutheni ukuze kwenzeke ngoko. Ngethamsanqa, kwenzeke kabini kuphela namhlanje. Yayingeyongxaki inkulu.

Kungekudala, safika kwilali entle ebizwa ngokuba yiGho. I-Gho yakhiwe phezu kwentaba. Ijonge ngapha kweDomje. UGho unezindlu ezimibalabala kunye neGompa emile okwe-pagoda. UGho wayenevenkile enye encinci. Yayakhelwe endulini. Kwaphekela ibhinqa ngaphakathi. Unyana wakhe omncinane wasikroba emnyango. BabeneCoca-Cola ebandayo yomkhenkce. Sakunandipha ukuyisela.

IDomje iku-2440 yeemitha ukuphakama. ILamagaon iku-3305 yeemitha. Kuninzi ekufuneka sikwenze ukunyuka. Ngoku sasibuyele kwindlela ephambili. Sakhwela izinyuko zamatye.

Namhlanje, sidibene nabanye abantu basemzini kwindlela yethu yokuqala kwiTsum Valley Trek. Omnye yayilibhinqa laseOstriya. Saphinda sadibana naye kamva. Wayefuna ukuhamba uhambo oluya eManaslu. Kodwa ikhephu lawuvala umkhondo. Ke, wagqiba kwelokuba atyelele iTsum Valley ngelixa elinde uManaslu ukuba avule. Sadibana nendoda yaseMexico neqabane layo lokuhambahamba, ibhinqa laseRashiya.

Ukudibana nabantu yinxalenye yolonwabo lokuhamba uhambo. INepal itsala abantu abavela kwihlabathi liphela. Udibana nabantu abavela kumazwe amaninzi kule mizila. Kwakhona sadibana nabantu abavela eKhanada, eSwitzerland naseJamani kwiTsum Valley Trek yethu.

Siye sadibana nabafundi beYunivesithi yaseTribhuvan eKathmandu. Babesenza umsebenzi wasendle eTsum Valley. Ngamanye amaxesha, umzila wawuba ngamatye kuphela. Ngamanye amaxesha, iintyatyambo ezimibalabala zazikhula ecaleni kwendlela. Amabhabhathane abhabha asingqonge. Ookhetshe neenkozi bantingela phezulu.

URam wayenexhala lemali. Wayecinga ukuba itshomi kaPradip ingaba ikwi guest house. Besiya kwenza ntoni ukuba asikwazi kuboleka imali? Ndathi kuye, “UThixo uyakusibonelela.” Wandijonga ngendlela engaqhelekanga. Wabuza: “UThixo uya kuninceda?” Ndathi, “Ungakhathazeki. Kuzolunga. Yiba nokholo.” Uvele wanikina intloko. Wayengaqinisekanga ngale nto ndiyithethayo.

Ekugqibeleni, malunga nemini emaqanda, safika encotsheni yale ntaba. Sasilambile. Idolophana elandelayo yayiyiChhokung, eParo. Yeyona lali iphambili yengingqi yaseTsum Valley. Sahamba ehlathini. Emva koko, safika kwisango laseKani. Isango laseKani laliphawula ukuqala kwelali. Sakuvuyela ukufikelela eChhokung, eParo. Besinethemba lokufumana ukutya emva kobusuku bethu eBasic Domje.

Intlambo engasentla ithe tyaba. Iphakathi kweentaba ezimbini ezijikeleze iTsum Valley. Indawo ethe tyaba ayibanzi kakhulu, mhlawumbi ingaphezulu nje kwekhilomitha. Kodwa ithe tyaba eNepal! Inamanzi alungileyo. Yindawo elungileyo yokulima. La mabala athe tyaba atsala abantu bokuqala baseTibet apha kwiminyaka eliwaka eyadlulayo. Sasihamba ngeendonga zamatye. Iindonga zazahlula iifama. Emva koko, sangena ngaphantsi kwelinye isango laseKani xa singena elalini.

UChhokungParo ujongeka kakhulu eTibetan. Izindlu zineendonga ezijikelezileyo. Iindonga zivalele isisele. Kuphela lucango lwamaplanga oluvuleleka esitratweni. Ngaphakathi kweendonga, izindlu zihlala zinemigangatho emibini. Abantu bahlala phezulu. Izilwanyana kunye nokugcinwa kokutya kusezantsi.

Iindonga zinika ilali imvakalelo yamandulo. Idolophu yayithe cwaka. Linye kuphela ibhinqa elikha amanzi equleni. Abantu abaninzi babesebenza ezintabeni. Babelima, benyamekela izilwanyana, okanye beqokelela imifuno ukuze bafumane amayeza.

Zontathu izindlu zeendwendwe zavalwa. Bebengenazo iindwendwe ngoku. Indoda yaseMexico kunye nentombi yayo yaseRussia nabo babelapho kwaye belambile. Kodwa kwakungekho kutya naphi na apho kwakuvuliwe.

URam weyisela umfundisi-ntsapho othile elalini ukuba asiphekele umfazi wakhe. Basamkela ngaphakathi. Uye wasiphekela isuphu yenoodle emnandi. Yayiyeyona suphu ibalaseleyo endakha ndayitya. Andazi ukuba wayesebenzisa eyiphi imifuno. Kodwa yayinencasa emangalisayo. Babenazo neesoda zaseTshayina. Sasela iisoda, nathi.

Sathetha nomfundisi-ntsapho. Wasixelela ngembali yale ntlambo njengoko sasisitya isuphu. UChhokungParo wayedanile kuba yonke into yayivaliwe. Kodwa yayiyilali entle. IneGomba yayo. Enye iGomba enkulu ikumntla wedolophu.

Kumantla aloo lali, kwakusakhiwa isikolo. Abantu basekuhlaleni banikela ubuncinane ngama-20 ekhulwini eendleko zesikolo, ngokufuthi ngomsebenzi wabo. Izikolo zakhiwe ngamatye anzima asuka kule ndawo. Abafazi kunye needonki bathwala amatye anzima ukuya kwindawo yokwakha. Abasebenzi bamatye babumba amatye ukuze adibane. Umsebenzi onobuchule unokubumba ilitye malunga nemizuzu eyi-10.

Izikolo ziyingxaki eTsum Valley. Abemi bambalwa. Iintsapho ezinemali zithumela abantwana bazo eKathmandu okanye ePokhara kwizikolo ezisemgangathweni. Abantwana abaneminyaka emihlanu bahamba iintsuku ukuya eSoti Khola. Emva koko, baya eKathmandu okanye ePokhara baze bahlale apho. Babona abazali babo kuphela ngeeholide.

Izikolo zorhulumente wasekhaya azibonwa njengezilungileyo. Oku kunokuba yinyani okanye akunjalo. Sadibana nabafundisi-ntsapho abalungileyo. Kunzima kwiTsum Valley ukufumana ootitshala. Ikwanti. Kwakhona, uninzi lootitshala baseKathmandu abaluthethi ulwimi lwasekuhlaleni lwesiTibet. Ootitshala bafumana ngokukhawuleza ingxaki yolwimi nabafundi kunye nabazali.

Abafazi abaninzi balapha abasithethi isiNepali. Ngokufuthi abakwazi ukufunda okanye ukubhala. Bathetha kuphela ulwimi lwabo lwendawo yaseTibet. Oku kudala iingxaki ezininzi. Abantwana baqala ukufunda ulwimi lwabo lweTibet. Inkoliso yabantwana ifumana imfundo encinane ngaphandle kokuba bayishiye intlambo baye eKathmandu.

ITsum Valley idinga abantu abafundileyo ukuze babuye bazokufundisa. Babeza kulwazi ulwimi lwasekuhlaleni. Baya kusazi isiNepali nesiNgesi kwimfundo yabo.

Umzila waqhubeka unyuka. Kodwa yayilithambeka elithambileyo kwintlambo engasentla. Intlambo ephezulu "yinqanaba leNepali." Oku kuthetha ukuba ineenduli, kodwa ikumgangatho omhle weNepal. Umhlaba wenqanaba unqabile apha. Into ebizwa ngokuba linqanaba eNepal isenokuthi tye. Nkqu ne-15° ithambeka libonwa lisicaba kwilizwe elineentaba eziphakamileyo.

Ilali elandelayo ibinguNgaku. UNgaku wayefana neChhokungParo encinci. Yayingenayo indlu yeendwendwe kodwa yayiyindawo yokuhlala. Iindonga ezisecaleni kwendlela zazisenza izithunzi ezinde kwilanga lasemva kwemini. Yonke into yayivalwe ikakhulu, njengeChhokungParo. Enye inkwenkwana yasilandela. URam wafumana ibhinqa lokubuza ulwazi. Ilali yaseNgaku yayinoGomba kodwa ingena Lama. Kunoko, kwakuhlala unongendi apho.

Idolophana yethu elandelayo yayiyiLamagaon. Safika eLamagaon xa kwakurhatyela. Ekuphela kwendlu yeendwendwe yayidlula nje elalini. Sasijonge ukuhlala apho size sidibane nomhlobo kaPradip, uNorgay Lama. Wayenokusinceda ngemali.

Safika. Inkosikazi kaNorgay, uDawa, yasamkela ngezandla ezishushu. Ukuhlala apho kwakulungile. Okubuhlungu kukuba, uNorgay wayemkile ukuya eKathmandu ngaloo ntsasa. Besimgqithile endleleni singazi. Ifowuni ibingasebenzi. UPradip akazange akwazi ukufikelela kuye.

URam woyika. “Senza ntoni?” wabuza. Ndaphinda ndathi kuye, “UThixo uya kundibonelela.” Yayilukhetho lwethu lodwa, ngaphandle kokutya amacikilishe, akwenziwa apha. Amacikilishe awabi kakhulu ukuba unesosi yebarbeque. Kwaye i-ketchup inokwenza nantoni na ibe ngcono.

Usuku lwe-10 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

Lwesithathu, Meyi 5

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, siye salala kwangoko phezolo. Salala kwigumbi leendwendwe ekuphela kwalo. Ikwayigumbi labo lesibingelelo lasekhaya. Ifestile yayingenayo iglasi. Umoya wasebusuku obandayo wavuthela egumbini. Kwakungekho bhedi, iingubo kuphela phantsi. Sabeka i sleeping bags zethu ezingubeni. Ndiye ndafumana enye ingubo yonxiba phezu kwe sleeping bag yam. Inokuhla iye kutsho kwi-4°C. Ndandifuna ukufudumala kangangoko ndinako.

Sahlala nosapho saza satya iitapile ezicujiweyo ezaziphekwe nguRam. Sasela iti yebhotolo. Apha, iti yebhotolo yayingakrakra njengaseChumchet.

Indlu yaseTibet ihlala inegumbi elinye eliphambili phezulu. Ungena kwigumbi elisecaleni ukuze ugcine. Xa amehlo akho eqhelana nokukhanya okumfiliba (akukho zifestile), ufumana umnyango oya kwigumbi elikhulu.

Iindonga ezimbini kwigumbi eliphambili zizinto zasekhitshini. Izitya zobhedu kunye neengqayi zicwangciswe kakuhle kwiishelufu. Iimbiza ezinkulu zobhedu zibamba amanzi. Akukho manzi abalekayo. Abafazi mabaye equleni, babuye namanzi, bawangenise endlwini; Izindlu ngoku zinezitovu zentsimbi zaseTshayina. Kodwa azinikeli bushushu obuninzi kwindlu yonke. Ndahlala ngase stovini ndisaziva ndigodola. Kodwa aba bantu bahlala nale ngqele unyaka wonke. Bayiqhelile.

Kukho ibhedi esecaleni kwefestile ekuphela kwayo kweli gumbi. Ifestile ineplastiki phezu kweendawo zayo. Kodwa kwakusavuthuza umoya. Iifreyimu zefestile ziqingqwe kakuhle kunye nezikwere ezincinci ezinokulungela iglasi, kodwa iglasi ibingekho.

Ndazigquma ngengubo eshinyeneyo ngoku sisitya isidlo sangokuhlwa. Ndiye ndaya egumbini lethu ndayolala. Igumbi lethu lalikwayitempile. Yayinomfanekiso weDalai Lama kunye nomfanekiso weLama yendawo evela eRachen Gompa. ILama kaRachen Gomba ihlonitshwa kakhulu eTsum Valley. Akadumanga njengeDalai Lama, kodwa ubalulekile apha. Siza kudibana naye kamva namhlanje.

UDawa, inkosikazi kaNorgay, wayesinyamekela. Wayengayazi iminyaka yakhe. Kodwa wayesazi ukuba wayesele eneminyaka engaphezu kwama-20 etshatile. Banabantwana abane. Bonke abantwana babengekho esikolweni eKathmandu okanye ePokhara.

UDawa wayehambe ngaphandle kweTsum Valley. Ebekhe waya eKathmandu naseIndiya. EIndiya, wadibana noDalai Lama.

Umsebenzi wakhe kukupheka, ukulima, nokwenza iingubo ezirhabaxa. Iingubo ezifana nezi zisemgangathweni kumakhaya abo. Ukwaqhuba nendlu yeendwendwe. Uyakuthanda ukudibana nabahambi abahlala apho.

Wayenomncedisi, isalamane esiselula esigama linguDolpa. UDolpa umalunga neminyaka eyi-11 ubudala. Akayi esikolweni. Akakwazi ukufunda okanye ukubhala. Usebenza nzima kakhulu. Xa engapheki okanye engacoci, usonta uboya kwi-distaff. Unoncumo oluqaqambileyo kwaye wonwabile.

Ngaphesheya koMlambo iSyar kwakukho iRachen Gomba, enye yeeGompa ezinkulu kwiTsum Valley. URachen Gomba ulikhaya kuLama Dukpa Rimpoché. Uphethe iimonki ezine. Ezimbini zikwiTsum Valley: iRachen Gomba kunye neMu Gomba. Abanye ababini baseKathmandu. Besiza kumtyelela namhlanje. Sawela uMlambo iSyar kwibhulorho exhonyiweyo. Emva koko, sahamba ngeenyawo ukuya kwindlu yoonongendi. Imozulu yayibanda. Isibhakabhaka sasikhangeleka sinamafu. Akwaba bendize neraincoat yam kolu hambo losuku.

Indlu yoonongendi yayigubungela indawo enkulu. Babesakha iGomba entsha kunye namagumbi oonongendi abayi-113 kunye noonongendi. Sadibana nabakhenkethi baseSwitzerland apho. Bebefikile phambi kwethu. Babemise inkampu. Abathwali babo babepheka ispaghetti. Yayikhangeleka ilungile. Ndiyityile isuphu yenoodle kunye nesonka saseTibetan uninzi lwale Tsum Valley Trek. Ukuba ne-porter efana ne-chef yase-Italiya yayiyinto enhle kubo. Ndatsho ndathi ndilambile. Kodwa basinika iikomityi zeti eshushu kuphela. Kaloku, noko iti yayishushu ngolu suku lubandayo nolunomoya.

Unongendi wasixelela ukuba amaLama ayesitya isidlo sasemini. Sasingenako ukumkhathaza ngoko. Salinda phandle kwade kwanetha. Emva koko, sangena kwindawo yeGomba endala.

Ekuphela kobushushu kwelo gumbi baphuma kwizibane zebhotolo. Iglowubhu entsha yokonga umbane ayizange inike bushushu. Ifestile yegumbi yayingenayo iglasi. Kwavuthuza umoya obandayo.

Ekugqibeleni, sadibana namaLama. Wayemalunga nama-66 eminyaka ubudala. Wayeneengxaki zempilo, kuquka ukungeva kakuhle. Wasibulisa ngobubele. Wasimema ukuba sihlale kwimethi phantsi. Wahlala enqumle imilenze kwi couch ephantsi.

AmaLama ayenomtsalane. Wayefunde izibhalo zamaBhuda ukususela kwiminyaka eyi-7 ubudala. Iqela lakhe lithembisa ukuba lingatshatanga xa lisiba yiLamas emva kokuphumelela. Izifundo zabo zithatha iminyaka engama-20. Emva koko, baqhubeka befunda imisongo engcwele.

Ngenxa yobudala kunye nempilo yakhe, ngoku ufundisa kuphela amaLama-uqeqesho. Unootitshala abathandathu abamncedayo. Aba titshala bafundisa abanye abafundisayo. IGomba entsha iza kuba nkulu kwaye ibe nkulu kakhulu kunendala. Iza kuba neefestile zeglasi.

Safota iLama. Sambulela ngexesha lakhe. Bendimbona ukuba udiniwe. Ndandingafuni kuhlala ixesha elide. Ndambuza ngokhenketho eTsum Valley. Uthe lixesha kuphela eliya kuchaza impembelelo. URachen Gomba akanawo amagumbi eendwendwe. Kodwa uMu Gomba wenza njalo. IMu Gomba yenye yeemonki ezimbini eTsum Valley ezibonelela ngendawo yokuhlala kubakhenkethi.

Imvula yaya ngamandla. Ndazama ukungena ekhitshini likaLama ukuze ndifudumale. URam wandimisa. Wathi andinakungena apho. Kuphela ngoonongendi abavumelekileyo kwigumbi lokuphekela labucala lamaLama. Kwaba ngathi uzama ukungena ekhitshini likaPope! Bendisangcangcazela. Sabuyela egumbini nevili lomthandazo. Kodwa kwakungeshushu apho. Ekugqibeleni, uRam wacebisa ukubaleka ukuya ekhitshini elikhulu elingaphaya kwendawo.

Sabaleka kangangoko sinako kwingqele, imvula enkulu. Yayiyindawo edumileyo. Kwathatha ixesha ukufika ekhitshini. Safika e kitchen sahlala ngasemlilweni.

Akukho mntu wasinqandayo. Bade basinika neti yebhotolo. Nantoni na eshushu yayamkelekile. Ndandiphunga iti xa unongendi wakhwaza esithi, “Kunekhephu phandle!”

Yaye yayiyinyaniso! Amahlwantsi ekhephu amakhulu, atyebileyo, amhlophe axutywe nemvula ebandayo. KwakungoMeyi, kwaye kwakunekhephu!

Ikhitshi lalixakekile ziimonki eziselula noonongendi. Babeziphatha njengolutsha kunabantu abangcwele. Kodwa oko kuqhelekile kulutsha. Amantombazana ayesebenza. Amakhwenkwe ayeqhula. Amantombazana aqalisa ukwenza isonka se chapatti. Ndaphinda ndazilambisa ukuba ndilambile. Bekungo 2:30 PM ngoku. Besingekatyi oko kwasekuseni. Safumana iti eyongezelelekileyo. Kodwa i-chapatti yayiyeyemonki, kungekhona yethu.

Sahlala ngaphezu kweyure. Emva koko, sagqiba ekubeni sibuyele kwi-guest house. Yayiyingcamango kaRam. Ndandicinga ukufumana igumbi elingenamntu kumzi woonongendi ndize ndilale apho! Ngamagumbi ayi-113, kufuneka kubekho igumbi lasimahla kwindawo ethile. Ndandingekayinxibi impahla yam yangaphantsi ende. Bendingenayo ibhatyi eshushu. Ndandine sweatshirt kuphela, eyayingenakufudumala ngokwaneleyo kule mvula kunye nekhephu. I raincoat yam bendiyishiye kwi guest house oko kwakubonakala ilanga lakusasa.

Ikhephu nemvula zacotha kancinci. Sayibaleka. Kwaphuma inja yasikhonkotha. Iimonki ezininzi zamaBhuda zibonakala zinenja ekhohlakeleyo engazithandiyo iindwendwe. Le nja yayibotshelelwe phezulu, ngethamsanqa. Yayinkulu kwaye isoyikeka. Yayingathi ifuna ukunditya, nangona inyama ingavumelekanga apha kumaBhuda.

Sayishiya iGomba sabaleka sisehla entabeni. Sawela umlambo owomileyo. Emva koko, senyuka saya kwibhulorho engaphaya kweSyar Khola. Sahamba ngokukhawuleza kakhulu ngeli xesha. Sasifuna ukuphuma kwimozulu embi.

Sabuyela kwi guest house. Safumanisa ukuba “ngokwenene uThixo usilungiselele,” njengoko benditshilo kuRam ngaphambilana. UNorgay wayebuyele eLamagaon!

Usuku lwe-11 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

Lwesine, Meyi 6

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, ndibhale izolo malunga nokuxhalaba ngemali. Kodwa, njengoko ndamxelelayo uRam, uThixo uya kubonelela. Kwaye uThixo usebenza ngeendlela ezimangalisayo.

UNorgay wayesiya eKathmandu. Wafika eLokpa. Emva koko, weva iindaba ezimnandi. Umda oya eTibet wawuphinde wavulwa! Kwakuvaliwe ngenxa yekhephu. Ngoku, yayivuliwe kwakhona. Wayeceba ukufumana iiyaks kwaye eze nezinto ezivela eTibet ukuya eTsum Valley. Ngoko ke, wahlala ubusuku eLokpa. Emva koko, wajika wabuyela eLamagayon.

UNorgay ngusomashishini oxakekileyo. Uqhuba izinto ezininzi. Unendlu yeendwendwe kunye nefama. Uququzelela iikharavani zeeyak. Ukwarhweba nangeempahla. Kwi-Tsum Valley, kufuneka wenze imisebenzi emininzi ukuze uphile. Kukho indawo encinci yokwenza into enye.

Wayengevanga ngoRupchandra kuba ifowuni yayingasebenzi. Iifowuni apha zisebenza kuphela ngamanye amaxesha. Kodwa uhlawula inkonzo ngalo lonke ixesha. Nangona kunjalo, uNorgay wayesazi igama likaRupchandra. Wathi uza kusinceda.

Namhlanje, iNorgay iza kuxakeka kude kube sebusuku. Kodwa wayeza kudibana nathi kamva. Isicwangciso sethu sanamhlanje ibikukunyukela kumqolomba woonongendi. Ijinga phezu kwentaba.

Ngethamsanqa, imozulu yatshintsha yaba ngcono. Ikhephu elaliwa lahlala phezu kweentaba. Yazenza iintaba zantle ngakumbi. Sahamba saya kwilali yaseBursa. E-Bursa, sifumene isitshixo kwi-monastery. Ixabisa 300 Rupee. Emva koko, saqalisa ukunyuka kwethu.

Igama elisemthethweni lemonki yiMilarepa Piren Phu Cave Monastery. Ithiywe ngeSt. Milarepa. ISt. Milarepa yazisa ubuBuddha kwiTsum Valley phantse iminyaka eyi-1000 eyadlulayo.

Abantu basekuhlaleni bandixelela ukuba kudala, iTsum Valley yayinezizwe ezilwayo. UMilarepa weza waza wacamngca kulo mqolomba. Emva koko, wafundisa abantu indlela ebhetele yokuphila. Wafundisa iimfundiso zikaBuddha. Wazalwa ngo-1052 AD waza waphila iminyaka engama-83 ubudala. ISt. Milarepa yazisa ubuBuddha kuyo yonke iTsum Valley.

Wafundisa ukungabi nabundlobongela. Oku kwakuquka ukungayityi inyama. Wafundisa ukuba ukubulala izilwanyana ukuze kutyiwe kwakuphosakele. Izilwanyana zinemiphefumlo, mhlawumbi umntu ozelwe ngokutsha. Wafundisa ukuhlonelwa kwazo zonke izinto eziphilayo.

Senyuka intaba saya kumqolomba woonongendi. Inamacandelo amabini. Indawo engezantsi sisakhiwo seemonki. Inxalenye ephezulu inomqolomba. Emqolombeni, kukho umkhondo weenyawo etyeni. Abantu bathi ngumfuziselo weSt. Milarepa. Ikhuselwe kwindawo engcwele. Kulula ukuyibona.

Ukunyuka kwakungumnqantsa. Kodwa iimbono zeTsum Valley zaziyoyikeka. URachen Gomba wayekhangeleka emhle ngezantsi. Iindonga zayo ezibomvu zazibengezela elangeni. Iintaba ezimhlophe ezinekhephu elitsha zazisemva kwazo.

Okokuqala, safika kwisakhiwo esasifana nemotele. Iimonki zazihlala apha ukuze zithandaze kwaye zirhoxe. Kodwa ngoku ayibonakali isetyenziswa kakhulu. Le ndawo iza kwenza indlu yeendwendwe enkulu. Iindwendwe zazinokuvuka zibone iimbono ezimangalisayo zentlambo.

Ngaphezu kwesi sakhiwo kwakukho eyona ndlu yoonongendi. Yayinevili lomthandazo nesibingelelo. UBuddha wayephakathi kwesibingelelo, kukho oothixo ababini ecaleni kwakhe. Umgangatho wawungamaplanga arhabaxa. Yayiyindawo enoxolo yokucamngca.

Phezulu phezulu yayingumqolomba ngokwawo. Isakhiwo samaplanga ngoku sigubungela umqolomba. Sangena ngaphakathi. Sabona umkhondo weSt. Milarepa etyeni.

Sahlala apho phezulu ixesha elide. Sabuthanda ubuhle beTsum Valley. Ayichukunyiswanga kwaye inyulu phaya phezulu. Iilali zazikhangeleka zincinci ukusuka phezulu. Iintaba zazibonakala zinkulu kakhulu. Akunakubuqonda ngokwenene ubukhulu beeHimalaya de uhlale phezu kwentaba. Xa ujonga ezinye iintaba, uziva umncinci.

Sehla entabeni. Safika kwindawo eneflegi ezininzi zomthandazo wamaBhuda. Yayiyintsimi yeeflegi emiswe entlanjeni. Kwakukho amatye ezikhumbuzo apho. Elinye ilitye lesikhumbuzo labalisa ngembali yeTsum Valley. Yathi "Tsum" ithetha "icacile." Abantu baseTsum Valley babizwa ngokuba yi "Tsumbas". Sahlala apho ixeshana sithe cwaka, sonwabile.

Sahamba sabuyela kwilali yaseBursa. Siye satya isidlo sasemini eMilarepa Restaurant and Lodge. Indlu entsha yeendwendwe iyakhiwa. Ukusuka apho, sabuyisela isitshixo soonongendi. Sahamba sabuyela eLamagaon ukuze siphumle. Ngomso, siza kuqala ukuhamba sibuyela umva.

Kuye kwafuneka ukuba siyenze mfutshane iTsum Valley Trek yethu ngenxa yexesha. Ukucotha kwam ukuhamba kunye nexesha endilichithe ndibhala le Tsum Valley Diary kwakuthetha ixesha elincinci lokuhamba. Besinethemba lokuya eMu Gomba. Kumalunga nohambo losuku ukuya emantla. Emva koko, sasifuna ukuhla siye eGomba Lungdang kwisiseko seGanesh Himal glacier. Bekuya kufuneka sikwenze oko ngelinye ixesha.

URam wayeya eTibet kwisithuba nje esingaphezu kweveki. Kwakufuneka ndiye kummandla waseGanesh Himal. Imini yayinomoya. Ndafumana indawo ngaseludongeni kwindlu yeendwendwe. Wavala umoya. Ndamamela umculo ndaza ndabhala kwiTsum Valley Diary yam. Iqondo lobushushu namhlanje belimalunga nama-20°C. Kushushu kwaye kumnandi kwiTsum Valley.

Usuku lwe-12 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesihlanu, ngoMeyi 7th

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, uNorgay ubuye emva kwexesha emsebenzini phezolo. Ngoko, sithethile naye ngale ntsasa ngaphambi kokuba siqalise uhambo lwethu lokubuya.

INorgay yinkokeli yokwenyani kwiNtlambo yaseTsum. Sathetha ngokhenketho nangendlela oluyichaphazela ngayo indawo leyo. Wandimema ukuba ndibuye ndize kunika iworkshop yabantu baseVDC. Wacela ukuyisingatha. Ndikhe ndenze iisemina eKathmandu ngaphambili. Ndifuna ukubuyela eTsum Valley ngenxa yale nto.

I-Tsum Valley ivuleleke kuphela kubantu basemzini ukususela ngo-2008. Benze umsebenzi omhle ukulungiselela abakhenkethi. Baye bakhe izindlu zeendwendwe kunye neendawo zokuhlala. Kukho iimpawu ngesiNgesi. Basebenzela ukufundisa abantu basekuhlaleni ngokhenketho.

Abantu baseTsum Valley babefuna ukhenketho luvuleleke. Iinkokeli ezifana noNorgay zatyhala ukuvula ukhenketho ukuze kuxhamle abantu. Benze kakuhle ekwamkeleni abakhenkethi ngelixa bekhusela inkcubeko yabo eyahlukileyo.

Savalelisa eNorgay. Wanika uRam imali esasiyidinga. Wasinika nesipho sokwahlukana: inkonkxa yebhiya yaseLhasa kunye nepakethe yeenoodles ezomileyo. Sasingafumani ukutya okuninzi de kube nguRipche.

Saqala ukuhamba late. Kodwa sahamba ngokukhawuleza. Sadlula eChhokung, eParo. Bekusathulekile kuvaliwe. Safumana ukutya apho. Saphinda sahamba entlango. Iqela elikhulu leenkawu zawela indlela yethu. Bawela umzila. Emva koko, bema baza basijonga. Bahlala kude nathi. Kodwa abazange boyike. Sabajonga ixeshana. Emva koko, saqhubeka sihamba.

Mna noRam sema ngesidlo sasemini. Sayonwabela ibhiya yethu kunye neenoodles ezomileyo. Sahlala sancokola. Sajonga ubuhle bendawo. Emva koko, saphakama saza sehla entabeni. Uhambo lwethu lwalulula de safika kwilali yaseGho. E-Gho, sathatha indlela eyahlukileyo. Lo mzila ubungekho kwiimephu zabakhenkethi ezininzi. Yayingumnqantsa kakhulu. Sadlula kwi Gombe encinci. Emva koko, sehla saya emlanjeni. Umlambo wawuluhlaza-blue ukusuka kumanzi omkhenkce. Ibhulorho yayihexa kakhulu. Iibhulorho ezininzi eTsum Valley bezitshintshwa. Kodwa le yayingekalungiswa. Sawela ibhulorho eshukumayo. Sadlula kwilali yase Domje.

EDomje, ngesehlile saya kutsho eGomba Lungdang. IGomba Lungdang yiGomba enkulu. Inamagumbi abakhenkethi. Ikumazantsi eentaba zeGanesh Himal. Ndandifuna ukuya khona. Kodwa kuthatha iiyure ezi-6 ukuya kwezili-12 ukuya apho. Kum, bekuya kuba ziiyure ezili-12 ukuya nokubuya. Asizange sibenalo ixesha elaneleyo eliseleyo kwiTsum Valley Trek yethu.

Indlela eya eRipche ikwicala elingasezantsi loMlambo iSyar. Sawela ibhulorho enqunyanyiswayo phezu koMlambo iLangtang Khola. Emva koko, senyuka intaba. Umzila kwicala elingasentla loMlambo waseSyar wenziwa kakuhle. Kodwa umkhondo wecala lasezantsi awukalungi okwangoku. Kwakusemva kwemini. Sahamba indawo yokugqibela kumnyama. Ibhinqa lasekuhlaleni lasithelela. Sawela iibhulorho zamaplanga ezityibilikayo kunye. Iibhulorho ezintsha zokunqunyanyiswa bezisenza ezi bhulorho zindala zingabi yimfuneko.

Injongo yethu yayiyilali yaseRipche. IRipche ijonge ezantsi iTsum Valley. Idolophu iphakamile ngeemitha ezili-105 kuneChumling. Ijonge phantsi uChumling. IRipche yilali yokulima. Ayiboneleli kakhulu kubakhenkethi. Kodwa inendawo yokuhlala ebalaseleyo. Salala apho ke. Yayingaphezu kwendawo yokuhlala. Babejike indlu yabo engcwele yamaBhuda yaba ligumbi leendwendwe. Yayineebhedi ezimbini. Sababeka ngovuyo i sleeping bags zethu salala.

Usuku lwe-13 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoMgqibelo, ngoMeyi 8

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, namhlanje iqale ngokungena kwelanga kwigumbi. Inenekazi lendlu lalisenza iipopcorn zaseNepali. I-Popcorn sisnack esiqhelekileyo kwezi ntaba. Batyala iipapa apha. Iipopcorn zaseNepali zahlukile kwiipopcorn zaseNtshona. Apha, ii-popcorn kernels azisoloko zimhlophe kwaye zimfiliba. Kwakhona, iinkozo ezingavuthwanga zithambile. Unokuzitya ngaphandle kokwaphuka amazinyo.

Iinkozo ezininzi aziphumi. Bahlala bebancinci kwaye basese "kwiqokobhe". “Iqokobhe” liqhekekile. Udla ngokuzalisa izandla kuyo. Akukho tyuwa okanye ziqholo zongezwa. Safika ebusuku kwaye sasingaboni ngaphandle kwaseRipche. Ngoku, emini, siyayibona loo dolophana. I-Ripche yidolophana encinci kwi-2470 yeemitha. Ayinazo iindawo ezininzi zabahambi. Andibonanga zivenkile. Inye kuphela indawo yokuhlala. Nangona kunjalo, iRipche inombono omkhulu wentlambo. Ungabona iintaba kunye nelali yaseChumling ezantsi. Ungabona kwakhona iChumchet phezulu kwintaba.

Simke kwangoko eRipche. Saqala saya ngase Lokpa. Ekugqibeleni sasiyishiya iTsum Valley. Umzila osuka eRipche ukuya eGumkhola umnqantsa. EGumkhola, samisa eCoca-Cola. Kwakhona sasihlamba ngamanzi abandayo. Ndandimdaka emva kohambo lweentsuku. Iinyawo zam zazinothuli, nditsho nezihlangu neekawusi. Uthuli lwaseNepali lungena kuyo yonke into. Bendifuna ishawa eshushu. Kodwa oko kuya kufuneka kulinde de kube semva koluhambo lweTsum Valley.

Ingcebiso esebenzayo: Uthuli lwaseNepali lugqwesile kwaye lufika yonke indawo. Nangona izicathulo ezintle kunye neekawusi, iinyawo zakho ziya kuba nothuli. Zilungiselele ukuba nothuli kuhambo lwakho. Iishawa ezishushu zinqabile kwiTsum Valley Trek ngokwayo. Cwangcisa ukucoca kakuhle emva kokuba uhambo lwakho luphelile.

Xa uhamba, ushiya ngasemva ubutofotofo bemihla ngemihla. Oku kuquka ukucoceka kakhulu. Iindawo zokuhlamba ngasese zinqabile. Uyazi ukuba lixesha lokuhlamba xa iimeyile zihamba zisenza ukuba umoya unuke ngcono kunawe!

Ukusuka eGumkhola, sehla ngomzila osingise emwolweni. Umwonyo uphawula iNtlambo yaseTsum esezantsi. Uhambo lokubuya lwasenza sawubona ngendlela eyahlukileyo lo mwonyo. Indlela eya ezantsi emlanjeni ingumnqantsa. Umlambo waseSyar wawusangxola kwaye unamagwebu phezu kwamatye. Savalelisa eTsum Valley xa siphuma kuloo mwonyo.

Emva koko, umzila wenyuka kwakhona. Sakhwela saya eLokpa. Sahlala kwakwi guest house eLokpa. Kodwa ngeli xesha, yayigqityiwe. Iqela labafundi bekholeji yaseKhanada lalilapho. Bayizalisa yonke loo ndawo. Ndifumene igumbi lokugqibela. Yayiyigunjana nje. Ndingene egumbini. Yayinebhedi kuphela. Ayikho enye into elingana. Ndilungise ubhaka wam ndalala.

Usuku lwe-14 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgeCawa, ngoMeyi 9

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, ndivuke ngentsasa eshushu kakhulu. Waphinda wandivusa umqhagi ngoku kukhala kakhulu. Andazi ukuba kwakutheni ukuze avuye kangaka ekhala. ke yena wavakala ekholisiwe nguye. Ndicinge ngendlela esimnandi ngayo isidlo senkukhu ngale ntsasa!

Kwabhuza iimpukane egumbini. Umsi osuka ekhitshini waphumela kwiintanda ezindongeni. Yayisele iyi-19°C.

Ndathetha nabafundi baseKhanada kwisidlo sakusasa malunga nohambo lwabo. Babeqala uhambo lwabo lwaseTsum Valley. Bendigqibezela ezam. Enye intombazana yathi yayicinga ukuba ndine-apnea yokulala. Akuzange kundothuse oku. Ebesitsho endiva ukuba ndiyarhona. Bendimangazwe ngumntu lo ulala namadonga abhityileyo aphinde aqaphele. Iindonga yayiziibhodi nje ezicekethekileyo. Kwakukho izithuba phakathi kwabo.

Sathi ndlelantle kwabaseKhanada. Saqala sahamba sibuyela kwindlela ephambili. Isibhakabhaka sasicwebile. Sasiyibona iNtaba iManase. Sahamba ngaphaya kophawu oluthi “Wamkelekile eTsum Valley Trek” ecaleni kwendlela. Sabukela iinkozi zibhabha esibhakabhakeni, zindanda kumoya ofudumeleyo njengoko sasisehla entlanjeni.

Uhambo lwanamhlanje belulufutshane. Sagqiba kwelokuba sihlale ePhilim. Bendifuna ukutya ngaphandle kwesonka qha. Ndandisazi ukuba uPhilim unomama bemifuno nesonka samasi. Sahlala kwindlwana yaseHotele PhilimGaun naseLodge.

Le ndlu yayinegumbi lokuhlambela. Yayinefestile enkulu yemifanekiso ngaphambili - mhlawumbi yokonwabisa abamelwane xa behlamba! Amanzi angena kwishawari ngombhobho. Musa ukulindela ukhetho lwamanzi ashushu okanye abandayo. Ufumana nawaphi na amanzi aphumayo. Ndithathe isepha yam ndayohlamba. Yayilusuku lwam lokuqala lokuhlamba kwisithuba esingangeveki. Kwafuneka ndikhuhle ngamandla ukuze ndikhuphe uthuli nothuli emilenzeni yam.

Ingcebiso eSebenzayo: Iimvula kwiTsum Valley Trek zingaba ze kwaye zibandayo. Ihotele iPhilimGaun kunye neLodge zibonelela ngezixhobo zeshawa, kodwa ulawulo lobushushu bamanzi alukho. Zilungiselele iishawa ezibandayo ngamanye amaxesha.

UPhilim akanambane. Ukudilika kwamatye kwatshabalalisa umzi-mveliso wamandla. Banamandla elanga, kodwa kungekhona kumagumbi. Indlu yayincinci, inkulu ngokwaneleyo iibhedi ezimbini. Yayineefestile kunye nocango olungasemva. Ndavula ucango lwangemva. Kwabakho indlu yangasese kunye neveranda encinane. Iveranda yayijonge phezu kwentlambo yomlambo. Sasibuyela ekujongeni uMlambo iBudhi Gandaki.

Sasihambe saya kwindawo esezantsi. Besiyiva ukuba kushushu ngakumbi ngoku. Akukho thuba lekhephu ngokuhlwanje entlanjeni. Bekushushu.

Ukutya kwakumnandi kuFilim. Ndandikuthanda ukuthetha nabantu basekuhlaleni. Umniniyo ukwangutitshala. Abanye babahlobo bakhe abangootitshala babekwi gazebo. Bandimema ukuba ndihambe nabo. Sancokola kamnandi. Yayilusuku lokuphumla. Bekumnandi ukungangxamanga ukuya kwindawo kube kanye kule Tsum Valley Trek.

Usuku lwe-15 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoMvulo, Meyi 10

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek Diary, sasuka ePhilim kusasa. Sahamba saya emazantsi. Imini yaqalisa ilanga. Kodwa imvula yabuya emva kwemini. Imvula yatshintsha izicwangciso zethu ngendawo yokuhlala. Sakhetha ukuhlala kwilali yaseYuru Khola, okanye maxa wambi elalini.

IYuru Khola yindawo enomdla. Idolophana kwindawo yokuhlangana yeYuru Khola kunye neBudhi Gandaki imilambo. Abantu basekuhlaleni babambisa iintlanzi ezintsha kwiYuru Khola. Ukuba unethamsanqa, ungadla iintlanzi ezintsha kwisidlo sakusihlwa. Khange sibe nethamsanqa ngobu busuku. Iintlanzi zabo zithandwa kwaye zithengiswa ngokukhawuleza.

Le lali lusapho olunye olukhulu. Bakhe izakhiwo zamaplanga ecaleni kwendlela. Banevenkile, indawo yokutyela, kunye nendlu yeendwendwe endleleni. Xa ndisithi “endleleni,” ndiyayithetha! Iidonki nabantu bahamba kufutshane kakhulu xa usitya.

Ngexesha leemvula, badla ngokuyishiya idolophana. Bafudukela kwindawo ephezulu. Ezinye izindlu zakhiwe phezu kweenduli emva kweenduli. Banokuhlala apho ngexesha lezikhukula ezincinci. Kodwa ngamanye amaxesha, kufuneka bemke ngokupheleleyo besiya kwiindawo eziphakamileyo xa uMlambo iBudhi Gandaki ukhukula kakhulu.

Emva kokuba ehlile amanzi, babuyela kwizakhiwo zabo kwaye bavulele ishishini. U-Yuru Khola ukwabonelela ngenkampu. Elinye iqela lalimise iintente phezu kwamatye agudileyo ngamandla omlambo.

Ndandibuhlungu ukushiya uPhilim. Yilali ethandekayo. Ineevenkile, iindawo zokutyela kunye nesikolo. Idolophu imnandi. Abantu banobuhlobo. Bendilala kamnandi ePhilim kwaye bendikuthanda ukuba nendlu yabucala. Uhambo lwakusasa lwalulula.

Mna noRam sehla endulini sisiya kwibhulorho ende exhonyiweyo. Sawelela kwicala elingasentshona lomlambo. Sahamba sibuyela kwiilali zaseSirdibas naseSalleri. Usukelo lwethu lwesidlo sasemini ibiyiJagat. Imvula iqale ngelixa sasisitya isidlo sasemini eJagat. Nditye i-spaghetti - into emnandi ngokwenene.

IJagat yindawo yokungena kwiNdawo yoLondolozo yaseManaslu. Izitrato zaseJagat zenziwe ngamatye agudileyo, amakhulu.

Indudumo yantlitheka. Kwabaneka imibane njengoko sasigqibezela isidlo sasemini. Yaqalisa imvula. Sahlala ehotele de sacinga ukuba imvula iza kuyeka. Kodwa imvula ayizange iphele. Sabuyela emzileni kunjalo. Ewe, yaqalisa ukuna ngamandla kwakhona! Sakhawuleza saya ekupheleni kwedolophu. Safumana enye indlu yeendwendwe. Sahlala phantsi kophahla, silindele ukunetha.

Imvula yayisithomalalisa. Sagqiba kwelokuba sihlale eYuru Khola. Kwakuza kufuneka sizimele izihlandlo ezimbalwa emvuleni njengoko sisiya emazantsi.

Igumbi lethu eYuru Khola yayiyibhedi enkulu. Abaninizo babebeke iibhedi ezininzi kunye. Ukhethe nje indawo. Ngethamsanqa, yayinguRam kuphela kunye nam kwigumbi. Sakhetha iziphelo ezichaseneyo zebhedi enkulu. Salala ubusuku bonke. Sayiva imvula iqhuba kwaye ivaliwe.

Indawo yokulala eYuru Khola ayinazo izindlu zangasese. Kodwa inomnyango ongasemva. Yinto abayibiza ngokuba “yindlu yangasese evulekileyo.” Ufumana indawo esebenzayo kwaye wenze ishishini lakho. Amaxesha anje akwenza kubemnandi ukuba yindoda!

Ingcebiso esebenzayo: IYuru Khola yilali esisiseko. Izindlu zangasese zibalulekile. Zilungiselele "indlu yangasese evulekileyo" amava kwiilali ezifana neYuru Khola. Ukuba ukhetha izibonelelo zale mihla, cwangcisa ukuhlala kwiilali ezinkulu ezifana nePhilim okanye iJagat nanini na kunokwenzeka. Kwakhona, ukuba ikhona, intlanzi entsha ingaba yinto ephawulekayo, kodwa ithengisa ngokukhawuleza.

Usuku lwe-16 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

NgoLwesibini, umhla wesi-11 ku-XNUMX

Kwidayari yam yeTsum Valley Trek, ngoLwesibini iqale ngeendaba ezimnandi. Imvula yayeka ngobusuku. Imini yaqalisa ukukhanya nelanga. Ilanga lahlala ngaphandle imini yonke njengoko sasisiya emazantsi.

Sadibana nomfundisi-ntsapho ekuseni. Wayesiya emazantsi, naye. Ebeya kuhamba umgama omde kunathi namhlanje. UngumNepali. Abantu baseNepal banokuhamba ezintabeni njengeebhokhwe zasezintabeni. Naye wayekulangazelela ukubona umyeni wakhe. Bendinexhala lokuhamba kwakhe kakhulu kuba ebekhulelwe. Kodwa abafazi baseNepali bomelele. Bangakwazi ukuphatha olu hlobo lokuhamba ngokulula. Ndabona ngakumbi la mandla kamva kwilali yaseDobhan.

Izolo, eyona nto imbi kakhulu yomzila yayiyindlela emfutshane kufuphi neYuru Khola. Yayineleli ehexayo. URam wandinceda ndafumana indlela engcono yokuhla. Waphuma endleleni yakhe ngenxa yam kule Tsum Valley Trek.

Wandisa emlanjeni. Wafumana amatye amakhulu. Wawabeka ngaselunxwemeni lomlambo. Ndandikwazi ukuhamba phezu kwala matye. Unxweme lomlambo lwalunamatye amakhulu. Ngoko, wandenzela indlela emanzini. Ububele bakhe bandichukumisa kakhulu. Waya ngaphaya nangaphezulu ukundinceda.

Ingcebiso eSebenzayo: Isikhokelo esilungileyo kwimiba yokuhamba kwiTsum Valley Trek ibalulekile. Uncedo olongezelelweyo lukaRam lubonisa indlela isikhokelo esicingayo esinokwenza ngayo uhambo oluyingxaki. Xoxa ngeemfuno zakho kunye nesikhokelo sakho kwangaphambili.

Umzila waqhubeka kwicala elingasempuma lomlambo. Kufuphi neTatopani, safika kwibhulorho exhonyiweyo. Sawela uMlambo iBudhi Gandaki. Sasibuyele kwicala lasentshona kwakhona.

Kwilali yaseDobhan, abantu babesakha isikolo esitsha. Amadoda ayesimba amatye ekwarini. Babebumba amatye kwindawo yokwakha. Urhulumente waseNepal ucela uluntu ngalunye ukuba luhlawule i-20% yeendleko zesikolo. Uninzi lwale ntlawulo ikwimo yomsebenzi wasekhaya.

Abafazi babesebenza esikolweni nabo. Bawathwala amatye ekwarini, bawasa esakhiweni. Abafazi babesebenza ngokwamaqela. babeka amatye emabunzini abo. Emva koko, babenamatye anzima apho amadoda abo ayebabumbela khona.

Abafazi bahamba kunye. Bahleka beqhula. Zazifana nomkhosi weembovane ezishukumayo. Ayephethe amatye aphantse alingane nawo! Ndachukumiseka kakhulu. Oku kwabonisa indlela ababezinikele ngayo ekwakheleni abantwana babo isikolo. Ibonisa into enokwenziwa ngokubambisana xa abantu besebenza kunye ngenjongo efanayo.

Ingcebiso eSebenzayo: Ukubandakanyeka koluntu kwiiprojekthi zokwakha ezifana nezikolo zixhaphakile eNepal. Ungabona abahlali belali besebenza kunye ekuphuculweni kwezakhiwo ngexesha lohambo lwakho.

Usukelo lwethu yayikukudlula eTatopani size sihlale eKhorlabesi. Ndandiyithanda ilali yaseKhorlabesi xa sidlula kuyo. Sangena eKhorlabesi. Sadlula kwizityalo ezazibonakala ngathi ngumdiliya ekuqaleni. Kodwa zahlukile. Zivunwa. Zisenokusetyenziselwa enye indlela yamandla eNepal.

IKhorlabesi inezindlu ezimbini zeendwendwe. Sasihlala eShangri-la Home Cottage kunye neTent House. Yayikhangeleka ngathi yimotele. Babesakha amagumbi angakumbi. Baye bahlamba kwakhona. Yayinombhobho kunye nefestile yemifanekiso! Iifestile zemifanekiso kumagumbi okuhlamba zibonakala zidumile apha. Mhlawumbi yimfundo yezesondo yaseNepali, ndaziqhula.

Inqaku elihlekisayo: Iifestile zemifanekiso kwiishawari ziyinto ehlekisayo kwezinye izindlu zeendwendwe zaseNepali. Ungakufumana oku kuhlekisayo ngexesha lohambo lwakho.

Njengezinye iindawo, imenyu yokutya yayilinganiselwe. Kodwa kukho into ebangel’ umdla eyanditsalayo. IChum Valley Winery iya kuvulwa ngoJuni. Umnikazi wendlu yeendwendwe uthe ubhuti wakhe uyavula. Babeza kwenza iwayini ngeziqhamo zasekuhlaleni. Lo ngumbono onesibindi. Kodwa yindlela elungileyo yokufumana imali kwizixhobo zasekhaya kunye nabakhenkethi.

Iingcebiso ezisebenzayo: Amashishini asekuhlaleni ajonga iindlela zokutsala abakhenkethi kunye nokudala ingeniso yasekuhlaleni. I-Chum Valley Winery ngumzekelo wokutsha kwengingqi.

Usuku lwe-17 lweDayari yeTsum Valley Trek

Lwesithathu, Meyi 12

Kwidayari yam yaseTsum Valley, namhlanje ibilusuku lwethu lokugqibela lohambo lweTsum Valley. Sahamba ngeenyawo ukusuka eKhorlabesi ukuya eMachha Khola Gaon. I-Machha Khola Gaon yayiluhambo olufutshane, olulula ukusuka eKhorlabesi. I-Machha Khola Gaon yayiyindawo yethu yokugqibela. Bendizohlala apha iimini ezimbalwa. Emva koko, ndiya kudlulela kwindawo yaseGanesh Himal.

URam uzondishiya apha. Ebemane ehla esiya kuSoti Khola. Emva koko, wayeza kubuyela eKathmandu. Waba nolunye uhambo lokumkhokelela eTibet. Ndaba buhlungu xa ndimbona ehamba. Wayengumkhokeli obalaseleyo. Ndavuya kuba siye saba ngabahlobo kule Tsum Valley Trek.

Ingcebiso esebenzayo: Isikhokelo esilungileyo sinokuluphucula kakhulu uhambo lwakho. Ububele beRam kunye noncedo lwaphucula kakhulu iTsum Valley Trek yam.

URam unesidanga semfundo yaseyunivesithi. Kodwa akazange awufumane umsebenzi wokufundisa. Ucebisa isikolo esikwilali yakhe. Saceba ukutyelela idolophu yakhe kunye kamva. Bendifuna ukubona isikolo nomsebenzi abawenzayo. Esi sikolo, njengezikolo ezininzi zasemaphandleni zaseNepal, sifuna uncedo. Izikolo azifumani nkxaso-mali. Baswele izixhobo. Iiklasi zixinene. Ootitshala endidibene nabo apha babezinikele. Babekukhathalele ukunqongophala kwemfundo yabantwana. Imfundo kuphela kwethemba kwaba bantwana. Abazali baseNepal bayithabatha nzulu imfundo.

Ingcebiso esebenzayo: Imfundo emaphandleni eNepal ijongene nemingeni emininzi. Ukuxhasa izikolo zengingqi kunye namalinge emfundo kunokuba yindlela enentsingiselo yokunikela kuluntu olundwendwelayo.

Sahlala kwindawo encinci entle eMachha Khola Gaon: Chum Valley Hotel. Yayinemigangatho emithathu namagumbi amahle. Ukutya kwakumnandi. Ndikonwabele ukuphumla ngaphambi kohambo lwam olulandelayo.

Ukuqukumbela kweTsum Valley Trek Diary

Uhambo lwam lwaseTsum Valley aluzange lube nzima kakhulu. Yayilithuba elihle lokubona inkcubeko yaseTibet. Kwavakala ngathi iTibet iminyaka eyi-100 ngaphambi kwempembelelo yaseTshayina. I-Tsum Valley igcina iinqobo zayo zobuBhuda kunye nendlela yokuphila enoxolo. Kwanangeenguqu zanamhlanje zenkulungwane yama-21, yayiziva ingenasiphelo.

Ukhenketho luza kuyitshintsha njani iTsum Valley? Njengoko iLama litshilo, lixesha kuphela eliya kuxela. Inkqubela ayinakumiswa. Kodwa ndiyathemba ukuba ukukhula kunokulawulwa. Ndiyathemba ukuba inkcubeko eyodwa kunye noxolo lwabantu aluyi kulahleka.

Ndaziva ndinethamsanqa lokutyelela iTsum Valley. Ndazibonela ngokwam ubuhle bayo bendalo. Ndafunda ngenkcubeko yawo. Ndemka ndinoloyiko nentlonipho ngeTsum Valley.

Yiyo loo nto ndithatha uhambo, nakubudala bam. Ndiyakuthanda ukudibana nabantu. Ndifunda kakhulu. Ukuhamba akukho lula kum ngoku. Kodwa nayiphi na intlungu ixabisa into endiyibonayo nendiyiqondayo.

Ndibe nethamsanqa ukuba uRam abe ngumkhokeli wam. Isikhokelo esilungileyo senza umahluko omkhulu kulonwabo lwakho lokuhamba. URam wandinceda. Wayenomonde kwisantya sam esicothayo kunye nemida yam yomzimba.

Ingcebiso eSebenzayo lilonke: ITsum Valley Trek ngamava anomvuzo anika ulwazi olulodwa lwenkcubeko kunye nembonakalo entle. Ingumngeni ophakathi kodwa iyalawuleka ngesikhokelo esilungileyo kunye namalungiselelo afanelekileyo. Zilungiselele amaziko asisiseko, amaqondo obushushu abandayo kwiindawo eziphakamileyo, kunye nemvula enokwenzeka. Yamkela ithuba lokusebenzisana nenkcubeko yendawo kwaye uxabise umoya onokuthula wale ntlambo ekhethekileyo. Uhambo lunika umbono kwindlela yokuphila yamaBhuda yaseTibet kunye nokomelela koluntu lwaseHimalaya. Cinga ngokuxhasa amashishini asekuhlaleni kunye namalinge emfundo ukuze abe negalelo elincomekayo kwikamva lale ntlambo.

Tsum Valley Trek - amava amangalisayo ngokwenene!

Idayari yeTsum Valley Trek-Uhambo olungcwele olungabanjwanga lwaseNepal