Ghalegaun: The quintessential Gurung hospitality

The snow-capped mountains glittered in the sunlight. It was an amazing experience. We could see many peaks like Machhapuchhre, Lamjung Himal, Buddha Himal, Annapurna and Manaslu, among others. We could also see the beautiful Ghanpokhara village, perched on the small hillock, in the horizon.


— By Bishnu Bhattarai

Ghalegaun was one of the destinations in my bucket list that I prepared five years ago. But I had been failing to manage time to visit this beautiful Gurung village despite getting many opportunities. So when Zimba dai, the former president of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), asked me to join him for a two nights, three days visit of Ghalegaun, in the last week of October, I happily accepted.

Ghalegaun and Himalaya

Zimba Zangbu Sherpa, who chairs Khumbi-Ila Samrakshan Pratisthan – a non-profit based non-government organization, was leading a group of travel writers to Ghalegaun with two objectives. One was to promote Ghalegaun news reports and write-ups in different mass media, and the other was to cover the familiarization trip of homestay operators of Salyan VDC of Kaski to Ghalegaun. Khumbi-Ila Samrakshan Pratisthan organized the fam trip.


On a fine winter morning, we left Kathmandu on a luxurious van. We were sixteen altogether. Apart from four or five new faces, most of us knew each other. The journey was pleasing. We chatted like old friends covering issues ranging from political developments to new Bollywood releases. Narayan dai, the renowned face of News24 TV, was cracking jokes now and then. He pulled the legs of everyone, sparing not even our driver.

Mountain View from Ghalegaun

We reached Besishahar – the headquarters of Lamjung – where mouthwatering Thakali daal-bhaat was waiting for us. After having our lunch, we boarded an India-made SUV reserved for us. As the SUV did not have sufficient seats, two friends volunteered to get on the rooftop. We began the journey on a windy, graveled road. Home stay operators from Salyan followed us in another SUV. The road passed through beautiful villages, lush-green forests, and neatly arranged terraces. As the road was full of bumps, we swayed right to the left and left to right many times. Not to mention our heads hitting the roof of our vehicle.


It was nearly five in the evening when we reached Ghalegaun. Once we got off the vehicle, we were greeted by beautiful Gurung women, draped in their traditional attire, with garlands. The first view of Ghalegaun was mesmerizing. We could see neatly arranged houses with stone and tin roofs. Smoke was bellowing from the houses in an apparent sign that locals were preparing dinner.

Welcome to Ghalegaun

Kitchen of Ghalegaun Homestay

The officials of the Ghalegaun Homestay Management Committee escorted us to a community hall that sits in the middle of the village. There they offered us steaming cup of tea, makai bhatmas, the popular combo of pop-corns and soybean, and gundruk (fermented lettuce) pickle. After we have devoured the snacks, the officials divided us into three groups and handed us over to our respective host families.


The real homestay experience begins here. Our host was a pleasing lady in her early 30s. She showed us to our rooms. There were four beds with neatly arranged bed sheets and warm blankets. By the time we had changed, our host had already prepared hot tea for us. She asked us to meet other family members who were busy preparing meals. We assembled around the fireplace and introduced ourselves to other family members. Zimba dai and three other friends were in the neighboring house. He invited us for some drinks and local snacks. The dry lamb meat prepared by his host was simply awesome.

Sunset in the Himalaya -- View from Ghalegaun
Sunset in the Himalaya — View from Ghalegaun

Our host called us for dinner at around seven. Rice, lettuce curry, gundruk pickle, and radish slices were neatly arranged in a bronze plate. We were served lamb curry and lentil in bronze bowls. We were seated on a woolen mattress, locally known as radhi, near the fireplace. The meal was simple but tasted great as all the ingredients were locally produced.


After dinner, our host escorted us to the community hall where local artists performed traditional dances like Ghatu, Krishna Charitra and Jhankri. The Ghatu dance, performed by two young Gurung girls, was simply awesome. It was a completely new experience for us. The artistes even invited visitors to join them. It was a memorable experience. By performing the traditional dances for visitors, the locals are not only earning livelihood but also preserving the art handed over to them by their forefathers.

Bhujung Village -- nearby Ghalegaun
Bhujung Village — nearby Ghalegaun

Our host escorted us back to the house after the cultural programs were over. We retired to bed early so that we can wake up early in the morning to view the sunrise.

It was already five when we woke us up in the morning. Snow-white mountains were already greeting us when we assembled at the courtyard. We hastily walked toward the view tower because we did not want to miss the sunrise. The golden sunlight greeted us a few minutes after we reached the view tower. The snow-capped mountains glittered in the sunlight. It was an amazing experience. We could see many peaks like Machhapuchhre, Lamjung Himal, Buddha Himal, Annapurna, and Manaslu, among others. We could also see the beautiful Ghanpokhara village, perched on the small hillock, on the horizon.


After watching the sunrise and mountains from the view tower, we traveled to the other hillock which housed Bhedi Goth – a community sheep-shed. There were more than 300 sheep and goats. The community had hired four shepherds to look after the flock. The shepherds bring goats to lower altitudes when it is challenging to live in the highland during winter. We were lucky to find Bhedi Goth in Ghalegaun. We, however, could not arrange a time to visit a small tea garden managed by the local people and the Uttar Kanya temple.

Sunrise View from Ghalegaun
Sunrise View from Ghalegaun

When we returned to our house, we were offered millet bread, eggs, beans, and tea for breakfast. After breakfast, our host bade farewell to us by offering us tika and garland. They then escorted us to the bus park, where most of the members of our team had already arrived. We then held a small interaction with the home stay operators of Salyan VDC, where they shared their experience of Ghalegaun. At around 11, we left Ghalegaun on the same creaking SUV for Besishahar. After spending the night in Besishahar, we left for Kathmandu early the next morning, bringing lots of sweet memories from Ghalegaun.

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