Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

Kusum Kanguru: A Himalayan Technical Climbing Adventure

Duration Duration 17 Days
Meals Meals
  • 16 Breakfast
  • 13 Lunch
  • 14 Dinner
Accommodation Accommodation
  • The Everest Hotel
  • Local Lodge
  • Tented Camp
Activites Activities
  • Peak Climbing
  • Trekking
  • Sightseeing
Price Reduced US$ 5800 Price Starts From US$ 4900 Book Now
Destination Destination
Difficulty Difficulty
Max. Altitude Max. Altitude
6367 Meter
Activities Activity
Start and Point Start/End Point
Best Season Best Season
March, April, Sept, Oct
Group Size Group Size
Minimum 2
Transportation Transportation
Private Car and Flight
Activity Per Day Activity Per Day
6-7 hours trek/climbing

Overview of Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing takes place in Nepal’s Khumbu region and offers a unique mix of natural beauty and rich cultural experiences. The breathtaking Himalayan views will spellbind climbers, and they can immerse themselves in the traditions of the local Sherpa community. This challenging climb, reaching an impressive 6,367 meters (20,883 feet), offers an exciting opportunity for mountaineers looking for physical and mental challenges.

With the proper preparation and gear, this journey guarantees an unforgettable experience, providing climbers with a sense of achievement and treasured memories. The adventure kicks off in Lukla, where an exciting flight transports climbers to Tenzing-Hillary Airport. From there, a trek to Namche Bazaar and onwards to the charming village of Thame serves as an acclimatization process. It’s vital to arrive well-prepared at the Kusum Kanguru Base Camp for the technical climb ahead.

Trip Highlights of Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

  • Spectacular Himalayan Vistas: Climbing Kusum Kanguru Peak provides amazing sweeping vistas of the tallest mountains in the world, such as Makalu, Lhotse, and Everest.
  • Cultural Immersion: Experience the Sherpa community’s warm hospitality and unique traditions, gaining insights into their way of life during the trek.
  • Challenging Ascent: The extremely difficult climb is perfect for experienced climbers as it offers both physical and mental obstacles to test your climbing skills.
  • Acclimatization in the Khumbu: Spend time in charming villages like Namche Bazaar and Thame, ensuring a safer and more comfortable ascent.
  • Base Camp Preparation: Prepare for the climb at Kusum Kanguru Base Camp, ensuring you have the right gear and are in the best possible shape for the ascent.
  • High Camp Adventure: Reach the high camp, where you’ll face extreme cold and have a chance to admire the stunning surroundings before the final push.
  • Achieving the Summit: The ultimate highlight is reaching the summit of Kusum Kanguru, a profound achievement in mountaineering, offering a sense of accomplishment and lifelong memories.

The ascent is broken down into stages, commencing from the base camp and progressing through the high camp, where climbers face extreme cold and enjoy unrivaled views. The final push to the summit signifies a significant achievement in mountaineering.

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing offers experienced climbers the chance to challenge their skills and determination against a formidable opponent while taking in the beauty of the Himalayas and embracing the warmth of Sherpa culture. If you’re ready for a life-changing adventure, this journey awaits your conquest.

History and Significance of Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

Kusum Kanguru stands tall at 6,367 meters, earning its reputation as a challenging trekking peak. Between 1978 and 1998, there were twenty-two attempts to conquer it, resulting in nine successful expeditions. A pivotal moment came in 1979 when a Japanese team, led by Ken Kanazawa, reached the northeast summit after four failed attempts by British, Japanese, and two New Zealand expeditions.

The main summit remained unconquered until October 7, 1981. Bill Denz from New Zealand achieved the first ascent via the southwest buttress, making history with the first solo ascent and traverse of Kusum Kanguru. Shortly after, a Japanese team secured the second ascent via the southeast face on October 12, 1981. In the years that followed, climbers continued to push boundaries, opening new and highly challenging routes.

One remarkable expedition in 1988 led by Nick Mason, John Diplock, and Julian Holmes saw the successful conquest of the previously unclimbed East Face of Kusum Kanguru. Warwick Partington, a former ITV & Channel 4 TV director, documented this triumph, showcasing the dedication and skill required. The ongoing exploration and conquering of new routes highlight the enduring allure and difficulty of Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing.

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing Detail Itinerary

  • Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu and Transfer to the Hotel

    Upon your arrival in the vibrant city of Kathmandu, for Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing, you will receive a warm welcome, and we will transfer you seamlessly to your comfortable hotel.

    Kathmandu, the bustling capital of Nepal, offers a sensory experience filled with unique sights, sounds, and enticing aromas, inviting you to explore its distinct culture.

    You can unwind in your hotel’s peaceful atmosphere or discover the city’s rich cultural heritage. It sets the stage for the exciting adventure that lies ahead.

    It is a day filled with anticipation and excitement as you prepare for the incredible adventure of climbing Kusum Kanguru while immersing yourself in Nepal’s captivating culture.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Not Included

  • Day 2: Kathmandu Sightseeing and Preparation

    You will start by going on a guided tour of Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, where you will visit ancient temples and monasteries full of history and spiritual significance.

    During this tour, you will explore the detailed architecture and understand the cultural importance of these sacred places. This experience will give you a deeper insight into Nepal’s heritage, immersing yourself in Kathmandu’s essence, where traditions from centuries ago come to life against stunning architectural wonders.

    After your cultural exploration, you will convene with your climbing team to prepare for the upcoming adventure. During this crucial briefing session, your knowledgeable guides will share valuable information about the climb and essential safety procedures.

    You will have the chance to inspect and ensure the readiness of your equipment, guaranteeing that you are well-equipped for the ascent of Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Breakfast

  • Day 3: Journey from Kathmandu to Lukla by Flight, then Trek to Phakding (2,651m/8,700ft)

    Lukla is a little town nestled among the Himalayan hills, and your trip starts with a thrilling flight there. Your anticipation for the upcoming journey grows as you soar above the breathtaking mountain scenery.

    After landing in Lukla, you will be welcomed by the refreshing mountain air, marking the start of your trek to Phakding, a charming village beside the peaceful Dudh Kosi River.

    As you step onto the trail, you will embark on a trek that not only presents physical challenges but also offers the chance to immerse yourself entirely in the region’s natural splendor.

    The trek to Phakding introduces you to the rhythm of trekking in the Himalayas, where you will cross suspension bridges and traverse through enchanting terrain.

    It is a day filled with excitement and a serene sense of calm, setting the stage for the incredible adventures that await you in this awe-inspiring mountain terrain.

    Accommodation: Teahouse
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 4: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft)

    Your trek continues through lush forests, where vibrant greenery envelops you in a natural embrace. The trail leads you through these pristine woodlands, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of the Himalayan wilderness.

    Along the path, you will encounter suspension bridges that gently sway above rushing mountain streams, adding an exciting element to your trek.

    Your ultimate destination is Namche Bazaar, often called the gateway to the Khumbu region. Situated amidst towering peaks, Namche Bazaar is a lively Sherpa town that serves as a gathering point for trekkers and mountaineers.

    Upon your arrival, the vibrant energy of this high-altitude settlement will welcome you, offering colorful market stalls, inviting teahouses, and a backdrop of majestic mountains.

    Accommodation: Teahouse
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 5: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar

    Your adventure takes a brief pause to dedicate a day for acclimatization in Namche Bazaar, a crucial step in ensuring your well-being as you climb to higher altitudes.

    While in Namche Bazaar, you will also explore this lively Sherpa town, where a blend of traditional culture and modern amenities creates a unique atmosphere.

    One of the highlights of your acclimatization day is a trip to the Everest View Hotel, aptly named for its unmatched views of the world’s tallest peaks. Located on a ridge, this hotel offers breathtaking panoramic vistas of the Everest region, including the iconic Mount Everest itself.

    Enjoying a hot beverage on the hotel’s terrace while gazing at the awe-inspiring mountain scenery is an experience that words can’t fully describe.

    It is a day that combines physical preparation with soul-rejuvenating moments, setting the stage for your onward journey into the Himalayan realm.

    Accommodation: Teahouse
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 6: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Kusum Kanguru Basecamp (4,360m/14,304ft)

    Trekkers embarking on the journey from Namche Bazaar to Kusum Kanguru Basecamp undertake a significant ascent, reaching an impressive altitude of 4,360 meters above sea level.

    The challenging terrain of this segment features steep climbs amidst the breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas. Departing from the bustling Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar, adventurers push into more secluded and pristine territories, greeted by increasingly dramatic views of towering peaks and deep valleys.

    The arrival at the base camp, the starting point for the ascent, brings a deep sense of achievement. Throughout the trek, the rich culture and hospitality of the Sherpa people enrich the experience, providing a cultural immersion that complements the adventure.

    Accommodation: Tented Camp
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 7-14: Ascent to Kusum Kanguru Peak: Navigating to 6367m (20,883ft)

    Mountaineers face a challenging and thrilling adventure as they aim for the summit of Kusum Kanguru Peak, which rises to a notable height of 6367 meters (20,883 feet).

    This segment of the expedition challenges them to traverse steep snow slopes, ice, and rock faces, requiring advanced technical climbing abilities, robust physical conditions, and adaptation to the altitude’s thin air.

    The ascent not only puts their endurance and mountaineering skills to the test but also offers stunning views of the Himalayan giants and valleys shaped by ancient glaciers.

    Throughout this climbing period, the rapidly changing Himalayan weather conditions, ranging from clear skies to severe snowstorms, introduce unpredictability.

    Climbers actively engage in setting up intermediate camps, carefully planning their strategy to navigate the technical sections safely and focusing on acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness.

    Achieving the summit of Kusum Kanguru marks a moment of unmatched accomplishment, offering a profoundly satisfying experience and leaving them with lasting impressions of the Himalayas’ grandeur and the formidable challenge they overcame.

    Accommodation: Tented Camp
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 15: Base Camp Cleanup and Trek from Kusum Kanguru Basecamp to Lukla (2,840m/9,317ft)

    Following the thrilling ascent of Kusum Kanguru peak, climbers immediately shift their efforts towards ensuring the mountain remains pristine, underscoring their dedication to environmental preservation.

    They meticulously clean the base camp, gathering all gear, debris, and belongings to maintain the area’s natural splendor.

    After tidying up, the group sets off on a 7-hour trek to Lukla, located at 2,840 meters (9,317 feet), transforming the return journey into a period of contemplation over the triumphs and hurdles surmounted.

    The trek to Lukla unfolds across the Himalayas’ breathtaking vistas, presenting one last chance to immerse in the grandeur and tranquil beauty of the nature.

    Accommodation: Teahouse
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

  • Day 16: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350m/4,430ft)

    You will head back to Kathmandu on your return journey, eagerly anticipating an evening filled with celebration to mark your victorious climb of Kusum Kanguru.

    As you board the flight in Lukla, you will carry the memories of your expedition and the deep sense of accomplishment that accompanies scaling the Himalayan peak.

    In Kathmandu, you can join fellow climbers, revisit the most memorable moments of your journey, and exchange stories about your ascent.

    It is a time to relish your triumph, the camaraderie you’ve built, and the unforgettable adventures of your Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing.

    Accommodation: The Everest Hotel
    Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

  • Day 17: Transfer to the Airport for final departure

    Your departure plans will depend on your flight schedule, which may leave you some free time in Kathmandu. During this window of opportunity, you can enjoy last-minute shopping, buy souvenirs, or remember your Himalayan adventure.

    Alternatively, you can use this time to explore the lively city, immersing yourself in Kathmandu’s culture and history before saying your goodbyes.

    Please take full advantage of this valuable time, whether collecting unique keepsakes or uncovering the hidden treasures of Kathmandu’s bustling streets.

    Meals: Breakfast


What's included

  • Airport transfers  and guided sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley with entrance fees
  • The Everest Hotel in Kathmandu, teahouses for trekking, and tented accommodation during Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
  • Three-times meals during trek and Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
  • All necessary staff with experienced English-speaking climbing guide, cook, assistant climbing leader (5trekkers one assistant guide), and Sherpa porters
  • Domestic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
  • All necessary paperwork like trekking permits and Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing permit
  • Mountaineering camping and Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing equipment high-quality equipment like North Face or Mountain Hardwar tents, mattresses, and kitchen equipment
  • Travel and rescue arrangements provide
  • Farewell Dinner
  • Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
  • All government and local taxes

What is excluded

  • Nepal Visa fee and International airfare
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Accommodation and meals in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, and early return from Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing
  • Altitude chamber or oxygen
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing guide on your request
  • Personal expenses like phone calls, laundry, bar bills, mineral/boiled water, shower, etc
  • Tips for trekking and climbing crew member


The Kusum Kanguru Peak climbing expedition offers varied accommodations, transitioning from local teahouses during the trekking phase to tented camps at the base camp and higher elevations for the climb. Trekkers initially relish the warm hospitality of teahouses dotting the trail, enjoying simple, cozy rooms that serve as comfortable havens after a day’s trek.

These establishments also present a splendid chance to delve into local Sherpa culture and savor its cuisine. As the ascent to the base camp commences, the expedition adopts tented accommodations, providing climbers with high-quality mountaineering tents engineered to endure extreme conditions at high altitudes. Strategically placed, these camps offer a secure and protective environment amidst the challenging terrain.


The expedition ensures meals meet the climbers’ nutritional requirements, emphasizing high-energy sustenance crucial for enduring the rigors of high-altitude trekking and climbing. Teahouses en route treat climbers to an array of dishes, blending local and international flavors, from the traditional Nepali dal bhat to pasta, soups, and, occasionally, freshly baked delights.

Transitioning to base camp and beyond, climbers receive meticulously crafted, high-calorie, and easily digestible meals, ranging from dehydrated dishes to porridges, soups, and energizing snacks, all tailored to fuel the strenuous climb. Keeping climbers well-hydrated remains a priority, with plenty of boiled water, tea, and other hot drinks readily available throughout the expedition.

Departure Dates

Customize this trip with help from our local travel specialist that matches your interests.

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    Good to Know

    We accept major currencies such as the US Dollar, the Great Britain Pound, the Euro, the Australian Dollar, the Singapore Dollar, the Indian Rupee, the Swiss Franc, the Canadian Dollar, the Japanese Yen, the Chinese Yuan, the Saudi Arabian Riyal, the Qatari Riyal, the Thai Baht, the UAE Dirham, the Malaysian Ringgit, the South Korean Won, the Swedish Kroner, the Danish Kroner, the Hong Kong Dollar, the Kuwaiti Dinar, and the Bahrain Dinar.

    Type C, D, and M power plugs and sockets are used. The standard voltage and frequency are 230 V and 50Hz, respectively.

    Vaccinations You must be completely vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 days before traveling to Nepal. Vaccination documentation is required.

    On Arrival Visas are available at Nepal's entrance points for travelers. Travelers from Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Swaziland, Cameroon, Somalia, Liberia, Ethiopia, Iraq, Palestine, Afghanistan, and Syria, on the other hand, are required to obtain a visa through their nearest Nepalese diplomatic post (embassy/consulate).

    Tourist Visa Fee

    15 Days – US$ 30
    30 Days – US$ 50
    90 Days – US$ 125

    To confirm the trek/tour package, we want a deposit of at least 20% of the total tour/trek fee. The remaining balance must be paid when you arrive in Nepal. We take Visa, Maestro, MasterCard, American Express, and other major credit cards. The total cost of a Bhutan and Tibet tour must be paid in full at the time of booking.

    We strongly advise you to purchase a SIM card for reliable internet access throughout Nepal. Nepal Telecom (owned by the government) and NCELL (owned by the private sector) are the two main SIM card providers in Nepal. It is preferable to get a SIM card at an airport, where staff will assist with activation and data plan purchases. If you have a SIM card, it will be easier for you to contact us and locate our airport agent.

    You can charge your electrical devices at hotels and lodges because there are no power outages. In the Himalayan region, however, hotel owners may levy a nominal fee.

    Climbing Gear

    • Climbing harness
    • Crampons
    • Ice axe
    • Helmet
    • Ascender and descender devices
    • Carabiners
    • Ropes


    • Insulated down jacket
    • Waterproof and windproof shell jacket
    • Insulated pants
    • Base layers
    • Mid-layers
    • Waterproof pants
    • Gloves and mittens
    • Warm hat and balaclava
    • Gaiters


    • Mountaineering boots
    • Insulated, high-altitude boots
    • Gaiters
    • Warm socks

    Backpack and Gear Accessories

    • Large, sturdy backpack
    • Trekking poles
    • Sleeping bag and liner
    • Headlamp with spare batteries
    • Sunglasses with UV protection
    • Personal first aid kit
    • Sunscreen and lip balm with high SPF
    • Water bottles and water purification system

    Technical Equipment

    • GPS device
    • Map and compass
    • Communication equipment (satellite phone or radio)
    • Climbing permit and necessary documentation

    Personal Items

    • Passport and permits
    • Cash and credit cards
    • Toiletries
    • Camera and extra batteries
    • Snacks and high-energy foods

    Camping Gear (if required)

    • Tent
    • Cooking equipment
    • Food and stove

    Essential Information

    The Best Time to Climb Kusum Kanguru Peak

    The optimal times for embarking on the Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing adventure are during the spring and autumn seasons. These favorable periods typically occur from April to May and October to November.

    In spring, the weather remains stable, offering climbers pleasant conditions without extreme cold. The clear skies enhance the experience, providing breathtaking views of the nearby Himalayan mountains and adding a special touch to the journey.

    Autumn is equally advantageous, as the monsoon rains have passed, resulting in clear skies and excellent visibility. The slightly cooler temperatures during this season are favorable for climbers. Additionally, the landscape becomes lush and colorful after the rains, contributing to the overall beauty of the trip. These two seasons, characterized by stable weather conditions and scenic landscapes, are considered the best and safest times for Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing.

    The Difficulty of Climbing Kusum Kanguru Peak

    Navigating Challenging Terrain: Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing is renowned for its rugged and demanding terrain, requiring climbers to conquer steep slopes, navigate challenging rock and ice sections, and traverse rugged trails. Climbers face the task of honing advanced climbing skills to tackle the intricacies of the mountain’s landscape.

    Confronting High Altitude Challenges: With its towering elevation of 6,367 meters, Kusum Kanguru exposes climbers to high-altitude challenges. The reduced oxygen levels at such heights increase the risk of altitude sickness, adding a layer of complexity to the ascent. Climbers must acclimatize effectively to mitigate these challenges.

    Meeting Technical Climbing Requirements: Scaling Kusum Kanguru demands a high level of technical proficiency in various mountaineering skills, including ice and rock climbing. The peak’s intricate features necessitate climbers to possess advanced technical expertise to navigate safely through the challenging sections.

    Navigating Weather Variability: The Himalayan region is known for its unpredictable weather, and climbers on Kusum Kanguru face the constant possibility of sudden changes. From snowstorms to high winds, the variability in weather conditions poses significant challenges, requiring climbers to adapt swiftly and make informed decisions.

    Overcoming Limited Successful Attempts: The mountain’s history reveals a stark reality – a limited number of successful ascents compared to the attempts made. Kusum Kanguru is known for being an extremely tough peak to climb and thus emphasizes the extreme difficulty that climbers face while attempting to reach the summit.

    Exerting Physical and Mental Endurance: Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing is not merely a test of physical prowess but also a challenge to mental resilience. Exceptional physical fitness is essential, coupled with mental preparedness to tackle the demanding combination of challenging terrain, high altitude, and intricate technical requirements. Climbers must cultivate a holistic readiness for the rigorous journey that lies ahead.

    Climbing Permits: Must-Haves for Safety and Compliance

    Climbers gearing up for the Kusum Kanguru Peak adventure must get two essential permits: one from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the other from Sagarmatha National Park. These permits are a legal requirement and vital for safety.

    The NMA permit gives climbers the green light to attempt the ascent, ensuring they have the proper permission. The Sagarmatha National Park permit is essential for conservation and allows access to the region.

    Climbers must get these permits before starting their Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing. It’s critical to follow all the rules and guidelines regarding climbing and protecting the Himalayan environment, which is unique and delicate.


    Getting the right insurance is essential when Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing. Climbers must ensure they have travel and medical insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering. This insurance should also help in emergencies, like evacuations, which can happen during the climb.

    Climbers must review their insurance policy to ensure it covers all the challenges and risks of climbing Kusum Kanguru Peak. Having the right insurance means you’re secure and can get help if something goes wrong during your climb.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Climbers tackling Kusum Kanguru face multifaceted challenges, including challenging terrain with steep slopes, high-altitude difficulties, technical climbing requirements, unpredictable weather, a limited history of successful attempts, and the need for exceptional physical and mental endurance.

    Though not obligatory, we highly recommend the prior climbing experience. Climbers attempting Kusum Kanguru should possess proficiency in ice and rock climbing and be familiar with the demands of high-altitude environments.

    To embark on the expedition, climbers need permits from the Nepal Mountaineering Association and the Sagarmatha National Park. These permits ensure adherence to regulations and support environmental conservation.

    Acclimatization is carefully managed through a well-structured itinerary, incorporating scheduled rest days and a gradual ascent to higher altitudes. This approach reduces the risk of altitude-related issues.

    Climbers on Kusum Kanguru must contend with the unpredictable Himalayan weather. Sudden changes, including snowstorms and high winds, are potential challenges, necessitating thorough preparation for variable conditions.

    Contingency plans and evacuation procedures are in place to address emergencies. These measures prioritize climbers’ safety and well-being, providing necessary support in challenging situations.

    Integrating Kusum Kanguru climbing with other trekking experiences in the Khumbu region is possible, offering adventurers a comprehensive exploration of the Himalayan landscapes and cultural richness.

    The Kusum Kanguru climbing expedition provides opportunities for cultural interactions with local communities. Exploring Sherpa traditions, visiting monasteries, and immersing oneself in the unique heritage of the region enhance the overall experience.

    Physical preparation for Kusum Kanguru climbing should include a well-rounded fitness regimen encompassing cardiovascular and strength training. Additionally, practicing hiking and climbing skills is essential for optimal readiness.

    Kusum Kanguru’s uniqueness lies in its challenging terrain, technical climbing requirements, limited history of successful climbs, and the exceptional rewards it offers. Climbers seeking adventure in the Himalayas find Kusum Kanguru to be a distinctive and fulfilling expedition.


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